Apelând la toți experții în izolație, avem nevoie de sfatul tău! Ne zgâriem capul încercând să decidem care este cea mai bună cale pentru izolarea Delos 2.0. Are cineva de aici vreo experienta/expertiza in acest domeniu? Iată câteva informații de fundal și opțiunile pe care le luăm în considerare, orice feedback sau sfat este binevenit! Link-uri către produsele pe care le luăm în considerare până acum: Panouri de izolare: https://www.pjbowers.com.au/products/neolon-foam https://www.armacell.com/en-US/nharmaflex Acoperire termică: https ://mascoat.com/condensation-control/marine-dtm https://www.pyroteknc.com/products/decicoat-t35/ Opțiune Spray Spray: https://huntsmanbuildingsolutions.com/en-AU/products/closed-cell-insulation/heatlok-eco Puteți găsi toate echipamentele pentru cameră pe care le folosim, elementele noastre esențiale pentru croazieră, instrumente, lectură recomandată, echipament de siguranță și multe altele la vitrina noastră Amazon! https://svdelos.com/amazon Urmăriți seria noastră de documente din 4 părți: https://80northseries.com Protejați-vă de soare! https://svdelos.com/rashguards Susține videoclipurile noastre- Trimite-ne dragoste http://svdelos.com/beer http://patreon.com/svdelos Ne finalizăm navigarea în jurul lumii, așa că mai sunt multe de văzut ! Sprijinul dvs. va finanța echipamente mai bune pentru cameră, internet pentru a încărca videoclipuri și, desigur, lubrifianți creativi pentru a ușura procesul de editare 🙂 http://svdelos.com/newsletter – Abonați-vă la buletinul nostru informativ gratuit http://instagram.com/svdelos – În culise. http://facebook.com/svdelos – Like-ne pe Facebook http://svdelos.com/gear/ – Sprijină-ne cumpără un tricou dulce Delos!
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It seems like you have your answer. In the Oil and Gas industry, corrosion behind insulation is a real problem. We even coat 316SS in some situations due to the potential risk. Use close cell spray foam, you get the insulation, protective layer, sound attenuation, and a little additional strength. It's likely to hold way better if you hit a UFO, unlike foam.
YouTube. Channel Sail Hub did a great piece on Spray cork insulation for their boat.
Hi, maybe you should contact Bering Yachts owner Alexey. They are insulating metal exploring yachts very well and he can share with you their experience.
WOOL WOOL WOOL WOOL WOOL! Sounds crazy to bring the sheep on deck but TRUST ME- It is EPOCH in this application. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING holds a torch to the VARIOUS benefits of humidity/moisture management thermal capabilities air cleaning/filtering sound dampening.. SAFE NON TOXIC & Fully renewable. I’ve used it on various applications, off grid cabins, sailboat (monohull) sprinter van- the stuff can’t be beat. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Have you looked into spray cork? A thin layer for condensation then the insulation batta might be a good balance.
God the thick stache suits you so frickin well , keep it please 😀
Built a camper on a merc sprinter and used a bat type insulation.There were so many areas you couldn’t do properly and we ended up using spray foam for these parts. We came to the conclusion for any future build we would use spray foam for the whole job. Learnt the hard way 😅
You should vacuum a thin plastic liner into the hull wall and then spray the expanding foam. This way you have custom molded insulation and still can take them off when made in sections. The same type of way how some parts are packaged inside a box where the foam expands all over it.
Your transformation from Sailor to Fireman is complete…. Ironically possible to be Captain in both positions. Thank you for your service sir. 🤌*Chef's kiss.
FWIW, having the extra thickness along with a closed cell, or vapor barrier is desirable when in freezing environments. There is a tricky calculation to ensure that the dewpoint does not happen on the inside of the boat to minimize sweating. The vapor barrier part is important so moisture wont get in from the interior to get trapped between the hull and the insulation because that is likely where the dewpoint will be, and if moisture is present there, could ruin your insulation over time. Long story short… operating in moist environments is tough. Don't skimp on insulation.
If you cover the hull and bulkheads with plastic before applying the spray foam, it should adhere to the plastic while making removable form fitting insulation panels that make for easy removal if you ever need to gwt in there
First consideration when choosing insulation should always be FIRE.
Brian – informative, albeit ancillary discussion on insulation/supplementary floatation in aluminum boats. https://youtu.be/Qa_fFQssr4E?si=MJqgoAkwPbQL3bFS
Oxygen and differences in temperatures creates condensation, spray foam is airtight ,therefore no condensation
Whatever you use, make sure it's closed cell.
Have you looked into Total Boat Flotation Foam – 2 Part Expanding Polyurethane Marine Pour Foam For Boat Floatation, Insulation And Soundproofing (2 LB Density, 2 Quart Kit) as a way to increase your bouncy? There are foams the put in buoy's that are water resistant and mold resistant. Just a thought when you mentioned weight.
I would install conduits for future installs like I did in my studio.
Brian, IMHO closed cell spray foam is the way. Run smurf tube with wire fishing lines wherever cable drops need to happen, but make sure the tubes do not touch the outer hull. If there is an area you are really worried about, like where the buss bars have joints, use something else there. All the other solutions let too much cold through or heat out, actually.
Lol waking up the entire anchorage with that bass line over here 😀
Asbestos is the only way to go. Lots and lots of fluffy asbestos. 😂. Brian I believe spray foam is the only way to go as it will act as a vapour barrier and will stop condensation on the metal surfaces. I get why you are hesitant. Perhaps you could leave one run from front to back open. And use your black close cell foam in that. That way you have a run for wiring, plumbing and what have you for future considerations maybe even use that for all mechanicals during your build. For all systems. . The new delos is looking sweet. Cheers
Don't use insulation batts. Water gets behind them and they WILL separate from the hull, creating an absolute mess, not to mention floating on the water instead of being buoyant.
You WANT closed-cell spray foam insulation to SEAL the aluminum hull. Besides, the close-cell foam provides considerable buoyancy. Calculate by multiplying the surface area of your hull by the average thickness of the spray foam times the density of FRESH water. Yes, the ocean is salt water, but the difference will account for at least some of the density of the expanded foam itself.
Skip the paints and coating, unless you find something that's more of a primer to help the spray foam stick even better to the hull while sealing the hull against corrosion even better than the spray foam.
If you have critical wires or other runs, lift them away from the hull then wrap key lengths of them in a plastic U such that you can spray insulation foam behind them while preserving them from contact with the foam while providing a narrow channel to be able to find them. If you need full-width access, jam some cardboard lengths into the U to maintain full width through the foam.
Various means can be used to gain very quick access to the hull through the foam, which is then easily repaired by simply spraying more foam.
Reading through the comments from consummate experts with many more years experience than I have merely confirms to me that closed-cell spray foam is definitely the way to go.
My experience: Building three sheds: Wood with fiberglass, steel with fiberglass, and steel with closed-cell spray foam.
Winner by a long shot, and for many reasons: closed-cell spray foam.
Downside: Carry a portable air device with full face mask in case of fire and you need to extricate someone from the cabin.