Demonstrarea procedurilor necesare pentru legarea unui cârlig adecvat și o revizuire a erorilor comune făcute la legarea unui cârlig, așa cum se aplică în general la navele de agrement mici sau mijlocii, dar nu se aplică navelor și navelor comerciale mai mari.
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Un cârlig perfect
26 thoughts on “Un cârlig perfect”
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a hitch is a hitch, not a knot
Great video. From your video I found out I have been doing it wrong. Thank you. Great detail and audio.
Nice job captain, thank you for your time.
!st principal docking perfectly explained many thanks – Sea Safe
Great instructions! Thank you
Thumbnail is an incorrect cleat hitch
Two rivers, one bridge
thanks for showing all four directions
This video is ok but not fully correct. Cleats that are oversized for the line need more wraps under horns first like a winch to make enough friction and they dont usually jam if you go to far horn first when starting. I would not reference “flip away from the line” because if you need more base turns before figure eights that might be wrong. I would instead say make sure it looks like a math “does not equal to” sign when done. There’s a better expert video online that shows lines slipping with this version if cleat and line sizes dont match up. Also ships use more figure eights with no locking hitch for more friction and that maybe considered correct but i dont know about that myself. Again it is very common for your dock cleat to big very big or dock lines to be narrower since cleat is meant for many size vessels and you may have a lighter vessel with smaller lines an extreme case being a dinghy painter. Do this with a dinghy painter on a big dock cleat it pulls right out. Put more wraps around bottom first like a winch to make friction the bottom makes more friction than more figure eights.
The locking hitch is best left as a single and last move. If you lock every hitch thinking more is better, in a surging situation on your load end the rope stretches and seizes turning all your locking hitches into a single knot that can not be undone.
Awesome video heading to the boat now to practice! Thank you!
Thank you! Excellent and perfectly clear!
Good instruction and it'll hold any size of vessel. That said, it needs two hands to undo that locking hitch. Here in UK, we're taught by the RYA to use the OXO technique. So you do a loop, just as you do, followed by a cross-over, then another loop. No locking hitch. Then, if you need to undo it, one hand is all that is needed.
Excellent. Thank you.
new boater here, would this knot be safe to use to tie up a boat over night at a dock ?
I was a Coxswain of various Square Rigged ships, and skipper of many smaller vessels, competing in 3 series of Tall Ships Races including the 1972 Olimpics meet. I hold the RYA/MCA Ocean Masters papers commercially endorsed including power and sail.
Suffice to say whilst I fully agree with the comments on the correct lead and making up on the cleat – I cannot agree at all with finishing off with a locking hitch. Many has been the time when a new cadet has used one of these concoctions which has jammed completely due to swelling of the rope, tightening from tension of the pull etc. The dangers of dealing with a jammed cleat whilst trying to control sails in a good blow, especially if in a confined water way are self evident. Locking turns, especially on larger craft are to be avoided (on our vessels it was a standing order not to use them). I have had experience of problems on vessels ranging from small dinghy craft to vessels of a few tons to vessels of a few hundred tons, usually on the smaller ones. Most times it will occur is when returning to harbour after a prolonged sail and the sail has been up and the cleat made up all the time. Then come to lower the sail and the locking hitch is jammed. The alternative is to lead and make up as the Instructor clearly explains and demonstrates – 3 turns is sufficient in most cases, then take the free end around the lower part of the cleat and give it a good heave. It will nip in amonst the turns and be held securely enough. Even if the rope swells or tensions down, the free end will always come away with a tug back against itself.
Hope this helps.
If you do get a cleat jammed by a locking hitch, and its serious – you may have to cut the rope. But first, place a stopper around a convenient strong point. The cleat itself may be your only option, but place it low so to avoid jamming the upper turns (a stopper is a piece of rope about two foot long, and a circumference of about 1" or a bit more with an eye spliced at one end. Hemp or similar man made rope is good). Reeve the stopper around the strong point and through the eye, pull it firm. Then lead it to the rope the buseness end of the tension make it up with a rolling hitch – you can use a half hitch followed by many turns winding up towards the pull, then holding it on as the tension is paid out and the stopper takes full load. But you risk being flung about with large sails. A rolling hitch with many turns is best (3 to 4 in most cases) as you can tie it off and let the stopper do its job and the rolling hitch taking the strain. Practise will give you judgement for what is sufficient. For safety you can double up and use two stoppers. Once secure check the cleat, the stoppers taking the tension may allow you to work on the rope and free it. Worth a go if you're in open water. If all fails, then cut the rope on the locking turn, this will give enough free end to bend on a temporary extension, therby giving you time to find a suitable place to heave to and replace the rope as necessary.
Hope this is of use.
Regards Tony Sadler
Ps. How many ropes on a Square Rigged Ship? Ans. Two, the bell rope and the yard rope. All the others are sheets, tacks, hawsers, halyards or springs etc.
Thank you very much sir!
Great demonstration – very instructive. Always wince when I see a wooden cleat though – pretty, but don't trust them.
2:25 So, the locking mechanism is basically a clove hitch. This video made cleat hitches so very easy to understand!
I've sailed for 59 years, served in USCG 72-76, USN 81-96, and taught all levels of Red Cross Sailing, and USNSA Mate, Skipper, Skipper B&C and Spinnaker as well as volunteered for Sail Training of ROTC Midshipmen. A cleat hitch will always chafe & part at the first turn, it is tied by going to the far horn, around both horns, then figure-eight locking the 2nd hitch. Since more than one boat may need to tie to the same hitch, you need to keep your hitch small since one or two more boats may need to tie to the same hitch. Then to finish run the spare line along the dock edge out from underfoot, or flake a Flemish Coil.
I do the same with one, standing up.
THANK YOU!!!
Thank you for sharing so much of your hard earned wisdom for free.
Thank you. This helps. I've been like that last example. "if you can't tie a knot, then tie a-lot" 🙂
That is incorrect you should not put a hitch on the clear round turns are the correct way
I have been a rowboater for 57 years—24 years with the United States Postal Service Second Rowboat Squadron and 33 years as Commodore of the South Carolina Rowboat Committee. I have no reason to state my credentials, but it appears that is what we are doing here in the comment section of this cleat hitch instructional video.