Episodul #48 Procesul pe mare

33 thoughts on “Episodul #48 Procesul pe mare”

1. can't stand some surveyors….

2. Interesting….
   The comments on twin fore stays and also leading main halyards to cockpit seem to be contradictory to me.
   If you want to reduce time at the mast – lead the main halyard to the cockpit.
   If you swap to twin fore stays – you will need to spend more time out of the cockpit, hanking on sails, raising sails and making them fast.
   If you are a novice and safety is your primary concern, I would stick with roller reeling on the fore sail and look to lead the main halyards and reefing lines to the cockpit.
   Twin fore stays come into their own on long, down wind legs (transatlantic), where you can fly two head sails, poled out on either side…..

3. did you get a second opinion?

4. old advice on roller furler

5. this guy's was stressing me out…

6. systems on sailboats are not rocket science, they are very simple to diagnose and replace, this surveyor is making it seem alot more work and difficult than ait actually is,
   he would nitpick a brand new boat to death, jeeeez

7. I agree, go for the furler. Mine has jammed a few times, and each time has been my fault. Follow instructions and you don't have a problem. You might want to check out 'Distant Shores'. Nice new boat but with twin furlers – great for downwind.

8. Please take all the surveyors advise with a super big grain of salt, furlers are a must for cruising. IMO. If it currently works, don't replace it. Classic trap for newbies

9. hope the purchase price reflexs the lack of upgrades

10. Great teaching video. What's the price tag for all that? Sure would like to spread that out.

11. Keep the furler, that guy has no idea what he's talking about

12. First,  Nice Boat and you guys are great,  I am enjoying your adventure greatly.   Next, if I may give some opinions.  Check those blocks again on your own.  Look for visible signs of damage to the sheave and or shell.  are the straps showing excessive wear.  If not I would not try changing them all at once.  They are extremely expensive now days.  You might as all of us should consider making canvas covers for them to protect them from he sun when sitting in port.   The rust on the standing rigging, specifically the shroud where he  said to brush it off.  That is far more important.  Check all those wires where they enter the compression fittings.   The rust you see could indicate rusted wires where you can not see.   If any of those have broken strands  change them.  Otherwise clean and oil them and keep a close eye on them.   Broken shrouds mean fallen masts.    I tend to agree with him on the roller furling.    More fore sails are blown out  sitting at the dock in a storm than at sea.   They have a tendency  to come unrolled during high winds and beating themselves to death.   You are in hurricane country.  Also roller furling can be extremely  hard to work  in a blow.    Hank on sails mean going forward but  at least they always work.     then one wants to reduce sail before the storm hits.  That yellow line does not belong on a sail boat  And I did not see any chain in the anchor  locker,  I would want to see a lot of chain and not so much line  so the manual windlass is probably a good idea.On the furler,  I will agree with others,   if it works  and it works smoothly, use it.  If it does not work smoothly and need replacing  go with the hank on sails..       IMO .    The best to you two and may you have fair winds always.

13. Mate, watching your videos is like going to class. You're always providing so much information. It's like having a collection of text lessons on hand. Thanks again… ;-}

14. as far as everything needing replaced…..there is a service life on all rigging and that corresponds directly to the safety and insurability of the vessel. The purpose of the survey is in two parts…..one, is to determine the sea-worthiness and safety of the vessel and two, to allow for a re-negotiation of price to offset the cost of needed repairs. You want a surveyor that seems extremely picky about the working age of things like mast, sails and rigging because the last thing you need is to break a mast base or snap the rigging in the middle of the ocean with a squall chasing you!!!!!

15. It's hard to watch the learning curve after you've had to do it yourself. Good info though. I got a couple things I didn't know before. Thank you.

16. Whenever possible, service it first… take it apart, clean it up, lube it, put it back together. This goes for everything; the blocks, the furling gear, everything. Service it first. Replace as a last resort (unless you are made of money, in which case, knock yourself out –- the boat store is that a-way)
    Also, while i strongly support re-bedding deck hardware, I call"BS" on the need to have screw heads pointed a certain way.
    Full batten main, yes, good idea. And get a stack-pack with lazy jacks too.
    Existing furling gear on head sail will be fine, just service it and put the sails on correctly next time. A loose genoa halyard will fowl at the top overtime, so don't let it get loose. (simple, right?)

17. my old boat was a CSY cutter rig. i had roller furling on both genny and staysail and neither gave me any trouble for the entire time i owned her

18. I agree with the people that have commented, below. This guy loves to spend other peoples money. from what I have seen, Yes replace the running rigging if the lines are frayed, No need to replace anything just because they look old. This guy, my guess is that he is used to NEW stuff on boats. If its still working why replace it. if its broke fix it. in most cases he may get a cut out of it if you do go out and spend his $10,000 shopping list. but there is no real nead. use your own judgement I go by these rules

    If it breaks repair/rebuild it. if it breaks again Replace it. From what I have seen you seem to have set an offer on a fairly decent boat, If anything counter your offer with a lower price and use the Survey report to do so.

19. all these things can be done over time except the bottom if youre living aboard

20. i used to do delivery to the carribbean in college..and yes furlers always break..on a 1000 boats

21. Lot's of personal opinions, but what can you do? Everything he sees needs fixing.

22. I wonder if the surveyor got a chance to real all the comments? Great feedback from all the comments. I only wish YouTube was around in 2001 when I bought my 1981 Sabre 34.

23. I bet this surveyor also has some great fish tales too…lol it's so easy when it's not your money

24. Allot of problem s

25. Big bucks he says he gets paid . Surveyor is crooked. Disagree with everything he said basically . He knows nothing !

26. at 11:30 The roller furler is fine. No one on board could operate it properly. What went wrong per surveyor: "It wrapped around up there." I wonder if that made it into his report?

27. Ear to ear grins!

28. A quick note regarding the mainsail cars and hanks; usually cars will remain fine provided that they are lubricated regularly. As for the hanks here, they are typical 80's garbage. Many boat manufacturers during the 80's had a love fest with polymers and used such products all over the boat to save on expense and weight. One of the key areas you will find this with are the sea cocks. Even some high end manufacturers used sea cocks made from polymers because they wear slower and are not prone to electrolysis. The downside is that once age sets in, the plastic dries out and becomes brittle. This is the point when failure begins to set in and can become quite dangerous especially if a seacock fails and it cannot be closed. Change sea cocks over to bronze and as for the mainsail hanks, I replace all of mine with WICHARD stainless. They are expensive but then again, failure is NOT an option on the open sea.
    Wishing you smooth sailing and wind to your back…….

29. Curious if the surveyor is SAMS accredited. He loses a lot of credibility with his recommendations on roller furling. I hope he provided better guidance on "replace now" vs. "replace soon" vs. "replace later". With so much deferred maintenance, it's not practical to assume the new owner is going to replace everything at once. Might as well buy a new boat….

30. Once again thank you for your knowledge

31. Great sharings. Thank you. I couldn't find these knowledges on any book

32. Is there a reference for stainless steel becoming brittle without oxygen? It seems that would mean the interior would be brittle, and only the outer layer would be ductile.

33. Angle of halyard to furler needs to be 10degrres ,otherwise it will wrap if it is closer to parallel,hard learned lesson

Comments are closed.