Episodul #123 Înlocuind călătorul nostru principal

Episodul #123 Înlocuind călătorul nostru principal



În acest episod, eliminăm vechiul nostru Mainsheet Traveler pentru al înlocui cu unul nou, modern! Dar la fel ca tot cu velierele mai vechi… reparațiile durează mai mult decât s-ar putea aștepta! Sprijină-ne pe Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=993142&ty=h Fii prietenul nostru pe Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009070181700 Suport media oferit de Retroklips /Pond5.com articol # II350013 „Sailors scrambling…” licențiat sub licență Pond5 fără drepturi de autor Toată muzica oferită prin amabilitatea Muzică YouTube fără drepturi de autor Urmărește „Sfaturi pentru căpitanul Căpitanului John” pe Youtube: www.youtube.com/user/seasensical/videos

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45 thoughts on “Episodul #123 Înlocuind călătorul nostru principal

  1. I was in my 20's when you boat was built and had just moved to USA to continue my boat building career. Your track bolts was most likely held down with nuts on the underside. Very unlikely to have any sort of imbedded captive nut under the deck. The corrosion or fiberglass around the bolts was acting as threads allowing you to remove the bolts. I'm very surprised you did not have a nut stuck on the bottom of the bolt that just spun when you turned. When you put the new track on you will probably have to drill new holes for the bolts and find when they come out under the deck so you can put the nuts on. The bolts looked in great condition , no corrosion, track would have lasted another 30 years. A tester me to to the quality of the original construction. I would not have wasted my time replacing it unless the traveler car bearings were broken. The traveler track is not really long enough to gain the sail control you are looking for. But you are having fun so carry on!
    Cheers Warren

  2. If you are going to DIY maintenance/repairs on ANY older vehicle, you need hand impact driver https://goo.gl/2P23e6 These are small and inexpensive so it would be good for your on board tool box.

    As you work your way through replacing thing on Yab Yum, replace all of the slotted screws with Phillip/Torx/hex socket (Allen head) fasteners. You will thank me later. When reassembling stainless steel fasteners, a dab of "never seize" is highly recommended. It will help prevent the screws from getting stuck like that first one.

    Last, when I have a screw holding something down that is just spinning, I try to put something thin (putty knife, thin pry bar) under the fitting and apply slight upward pressure. Amy was doing the same with the tip of the knife under the screw head.

  3. Its the loose nut behind the screwdriver. 😉

    Seriously, for those stubborn screws, I use Craftsman screwdrivers that have square shafts. Then you can put a big crescent wrench on it to get the torque you need. Put your weight down on the butt of the screwdriver and turn (or have Amy turn) the crescent wrench.

    As others have said, for the ones that "turn and turn" you are probably lowering the nuts on the underside. Or if they nuts have fallen off or stripped out, try a magnet or a thin screw driver to lift the screw out.

  4. You might also consider looking at the hardware stores for a product called PB Blaster. It will actually disolve rust. WD is good but PB works faster and will disolve rust that WD want touch. Just be SURE to read the warnings as it will disolve some paint finishes and some plastics. Have a great day and happy sailings

  5. When you reinstall the screws, use a little "anti-seize" on the threads which you can purchase at any auto parts store. It will prevent corrosion of the threads and also act as a lubricant in case you need to remove them in the future.

  6. Great vid, good job Vin, great job Amy! I'll throw my tips in the pool with everybody else. As mentioned, use a Craftsman wrench with a square shank or find one that has a 6 sided shoulder where the shaft meets the handle to put a wrench on, I prefer the latter due to being able to use the boxed end of the wrench on to avoid the wrench slipping off or stretching of the open end on the square shanked Craftsman, also an impact screwdriver and hammer works excellently to free up seized bolts, also check out whats called go-through screwdrivers in which the screwdriver shank runs completely through the handle coming through the end so you can give a little love tap to jar the screw loose, works similar to the impact screwdriver, and lastly use a Benzo handheld propane torch to just slightly heat up the bolt or machine screw enough to melt candle wax, when it melts the wax it turns it super thin to penetrate the threads resulting lubricated threads (machine shop trick). all of this of course only works if the heads not stripped and you can get good enough bite. I try to never use a phillips screw when replacing due to the fact the heads can be stripped out to easily, I try to stick with slotted/flathead, torx/star or square bit head screws because yourself may be the one that has to take it out at some point down the road, just something for consideration. Hope it helps!

  7. I know that you are watching the hurricanes. I just wanted to say, please do not try to risk out. If you have one come close to you. Get out!!! Go somewhere in safe. I've been through several. And I will never ride out another again. It's just too dangerous. Always stay safe my friends.

  8. Are you guys watching Hurricane Irma? You may need to Make plans for Yab-Yum and yourselves. I live in Myrtle Beach, just a few miles from Osprey, happy to help if you need it. In fact we have talked to Osprey about using their Marina (Miles and Sherry I recall), we hope to be shopping for a boat this Fall.

  9. Removing and replacing any car track on a sailboat deck is one of hte worst jobs on a sailboat I think. Bravo for tackling it. It's too bad you couldn't find a new replacement traveller car from another existing brand which would fit on that existing track. I've had luck finding jib cars that fit on our old weird jib car track, even though it's not a standard size. I cringe at the thought of having to replace them as the nuts below are not very accessible. Getting it all back down and re-seated so that it doesn't leak is a real job.

    I'm surprised that those long bolts didn't go all the way through to a nut on the bottom. There must be threads built into the fiberglass that those bolts engaged. Hopefully whatever track you get to replace this will have the same bolt pattern so that you can re-use those. This might be tough to find and you would then have to fill the old holes in and drill new ones all the way through to the inside and put nuts and washers on them to match the new track mounting points.

    Our boat does not have a traveller at all. It's a simple A-shaped block and tackle system that has two mounting points on either side of the boat. This means that the boom tends to "self traveller" to the low-side of the boat away from the wind in higher winds. The disadvantage is that in light air we can not move the traveller to the high side to increase efficiency. We can compensate somewhat with the boom vang but not really well.

    As always, a great video. Thanks for sharing. Cudos on the fresh water upgrades to get clean water on board that you can trust using.

  10. use heat to soften hoses when you want to remove them from their fittings. Even a regular hair dryer can work in a pinch. Once the hose is warm and soft you can usually pull it right off. This trick can be helpful putting hoses back onto barb fittings too.

  11. Good job, Amy. Vin, I hope you learned a valuable lesson during this episode. That Amy is brilliant. Keep up the good work, guys. Love your channel. You both rock.

  12. I have an old project boat I'm working on and I have tons of these kinds of screws that have lock nuts holding them under the deck. Unfortunately many of them are in places there is no way to get a pair of pliers into to hold the nut. A few I have had to drill off the screw heads to get the hardware off. Sure seems like the people who design boats never have to repair them 20 years later. Hope your refit is going well and always looking forward to more videos. Keep it up!

  13. I have just completed the same job!

    First of all they are not screws, they are bolts. This means you have to check if there are nuts used or not. If there are nuts, take them of before anything else. In my case there were no nuts on the bolts.

    Stainless Steel and Aluminium, specially at sea, will get stuck over time due to the aluminium oxide that grows between the SS and the aluminium. Normally Aluminium develops just a thin layer of oxide that prevents oxygen reaching the Aluminium but when SS is involved the SS works like a catalyst and the process never stops. To prevent this a special compound like, for example, Duralac can be used. If forms a layer in between the Aluminium and SS preventing Aluminium oxide to form.

    Anyway, the best way to crack the Aluminium oxide in the old bolt holes I have found was using an old bit'n brace that I inherited from my father in law. Obviously I used a screw bit in it rather than an auger bit. Note that I did go to a hardware store to get a bit that matched the old bolts perfect. The brace allowed me to put a lot of down force on it with my shoulder, preventing the bit to slip from the bolt. The lever action provided by the brace gave me the torque needed to crack the Aluminium oxide inside the bolt holes. A bit of WD40 helped as well.

    Since the new rail did not match the existing holes I closed the holes with an Epoxy/cotton mix after having taped the bottom of the holes with painters tape. I decided to use SS bolts again and drilled new holes with a diameter equal to the core diameter of the thread. The rationale being that the old bolts have held well over the last 37 years. Also the glass fibres in the GRP are fine enough to match any thread and since a bolt's thread has far finer pitch then a screw, I figured a bolt would be much stronger. The GRP is over an inch thick in that spot and I see no reason to add nuts, they weren't used in the original fitting either.
    I did not know if the original builders cut thread in the GRP first or if they just forced the bolts in. I tried the latter but soon decided to cut threads because it took me too much effort to force the bolts in without it. Cutting the thread also allowed me to test fit and take it apart again with ease.

    Final assembly was done using Duralac on the bolts and MS polymer between the track and the boat. The poly is not intended to glue the rail to the boat but to prevent dirt from collecting between the rail and the boat.

  14. There are nuts and washers, as has been pointed out, You need to locate and see if you can get up in there in order to install the new one.

  15. Another interest filled episode…  you should deffo look for the nuts on inside of those screws but would certainly replace them with stainless set locking nut (with plastic around top). Was interested to see that one of your past 'hats' h was a Pastor, and have picked up on a number of christian hymns & songs in music snatches… There has to be a side story at least there you could explore some more.

  16. Actually you would want to find the undersides of the track and you will see these are bolts you would hold them in place with the screwdriver and undo the nuts with a ratchet, a quick tap on the bottom of the bolts and they will come right out.
    Now yes aluminium track and stainless bolts they will literally weld themselves together over time.
    WD40 is a god sent on a boat.
    BTW why not just purchase a traveler kit from Harken ?
    Amy with those old hose you can take the clamp off and use you sw to cut a vertical slot in the hose at the fitting height to remove the pressure. (for next time 😉 )
    One more thing if you want to depower the main use the vang you will keep power at the bottom of the main and spill the top, you will also loose twist in the sail which is what you want. And yes you can play with the traveler too!

  17. I love how you and Amy work together and how Amy can go and do projects on her own. Im teying my best to start my own journey as a liveaboard but i am being met with a lot of resistance and negativity. Keep up the great work, the positive and the love. For now I'll live my dreams through you.

  18. Great job. Good to hear you are working with Garhauer as they do nice work and very reasonable. I've installed two of their travelers so far. Now that you have removed the bolts, are you going to locate the nuts and large fender washers that are on the underside???

  19. Easier to pry up on the traveler between it and its mounting surface, better than trying to wedge a blade under the head of the screw trying to get it to catch a thread on it's way out. Nice job getting them all out!

  20. Hi Vin, Amy. Been watching your vids. Love what you are doing. I have wanted to advise then realized I am so out of date that the advice you are getting will have already solved you problems. Here goes any way. Years ago when I taught fresh water dingy sailing any metal nuts and bolts were coated in waterproof grease. At times the sockets you are using look wobbly on the UK made engine. Are you aware that the UK had its own nut sizes, Whitworth sizes are slightly different different to metric. I've worked on cars that had an annoying mixture of both – so called restored cars. On this vid those screws are not screws. They are screw topped bolts that feed into threaded captive nuts. If the nuts are no longer captive the whole shebang will spin. Find the other end. I wednt to the beginning of the vids after I watched a random episode in which Amy said something like, 'I've never taken this off before!' That's my sort of girl. As my wife says, why do women want equality – they've alway been better. Love you both and the boat.

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