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Next time your down on your girl scrapping the bottom… Borrow one of the wife's headbands and cover your ears with it. You don't what to visit the doctor because of a little weevil in it.
Wet Pu$$y? Really?
For a DAW, you can't beat a PC for power performance and price. For what you spent on your MacBook Pro you could have brought a PC, better mics, XLR crap… ect ect… you can even upgrade things like ram and hard drives DIY with a plug play mind set….
You should maybe, get into the difficult areas to look for structural and system damage.
Definitely trials and tribulations abound to test your sailing captain's mettle!
I will say you didn't miss too much at the boat show. Other than what seemed like many more YouTubers present it looked just like last year! I didn't plan to go but the offer of free tickets and free hotel talked me into it! I head South for the Bahamas Thursday morning. May not be following YouTube much, I'll try to stay in touch thru e-mail to see how things are going! Good luck!
A good pressure washer will work in saltwater with salt water. Just flush it inside and out with fresh water. The slim on a hull will encourage bottom growth. This is best done in shallow water where you can walk on the bottom. Some of these machines have ceramic cylinders that don't wear out and never suffer corrosion or pitting.
Looks like the repairs are coming along. Hope the computer and outboard motor repairs worked out. One of the more interesting tools I've seen for cleaning hulls was a set of semi/qtr circle alum tubes that fit together and the bottom end contains a fixture that will hold a brush or a 3M pad. You stand one deck and brush/scrub the hull adding more sections for deeper parts of hull. The bottom end usually has an inflatable buoy type device to provide upward pressure of the brush or pad on the hull. For a mono hull you can clean entire hull, for a cat just the outside sides of the hulls.
As far as the electric winch, sometime look at getting a large battery powered Milwaukie angle drill with a special fitting for winches that goes in the chuck. You are dealing with larger main and jennys on this cat. As far as electrifying old manual winches, I always thought that the high powered 12v motor and gear assembly they use for dump truck load tarps could be adapted.
Just keep working and, eventually, your project boat will be
mostly finished.
That escape hatch is cool, now it's tight like a tiger. Lol
You guy's will make this work an it will become your home… I Kno Lauren it's difficult an it's daunting (call her dauntless) girl I'm inspired by your skill an kindness.. you both work together as a team an have each others backs an that's a beautiful thing to watch! I love the escape hatch in the floor… I see great fun to be had at anchor… Rivers is a happy kid an that Cat will bring much joy to your family…!! ✌🏼💗😊❣️
I'm about to start looking for a vessel..
Enjoyed the video again. Hopefully you guys are all closed by now an she is coming along nicely.
How much bottom growth do you have. I'm no expert and I don't have copper coat. But I did a lot of research on it a couple years ago when I was getting ready to do my boat bottom myself and decided against it. It's hard to comment on it without knowing if it you just have soft growth and slime or if there is hard growth like barnacles and muscles starting to adhere. Unfortunately I heard over and over that the abilities of Copper Coat have been greatly oversold. I had pretty much been sold on it hearing the rumors and all the positives about it myself. I ultimately decided against it because I was doing my bottom with the help of my brothers and a couple buddies. Not paying to have it done with any kind of guarantee. They were all coming in from out of town for a short week so it was a very time sensitive thing when everyone could be here to help.
I learned copper coat can be very finicky and requires perfect prep work. It has mixture adjustments that have to be made based on temperature humidity and pressure at the time of application, and the copper will settle out where you have to make sure you keep it mixed in solution as you apply it. Even following manufacturer guidelines perfectly I heard nightmare stories where.coppsr.coat and the yard that applied the coating played the blue game back and forth for months before anything got done. Some yards (& allegedly owners themselves after neither the yard nor copper coat took responsibility) having to recoat or even completely strip and recoat boats because the coating didn't cure or bond correctly for some reason. I heard and read that it can be an absolute nightmare to strip off if you ever need to completely remove it for any reason.
Most owners who were happy with their copper coat though seemed to say it definitely doesn't prevent all growth. It just has made their lives much easier. They don't get the stubborn growth and hard growth like persistent scum, or barnacles and muscles that require a metal scraper and metal brushes to knock off or pressure washing. Most say they can wipe most growth off by hand and even the most stubborn growth like at the waterline comes off with a scrubber sponge for dishes or a soft to medium bristle brush.
You should be able to tell once you get under there and start cleaning. If your entire hull is a breeze compared to cleaning things that aren't copper coated, like your props, shaft and any rub plates or anodes, etc then the copper coat probably still has some life and is doing its job. Green is good was something that kept coming up. Like the Statue of Liberty the Copper in the Coating should take on a blue green verdigris color when cured correctly that verdigris dust should release And cloud the water when you clean your bottom of it is doing its job.
I'm crossing my fingers and toes, hoping you got one of the boats that was done correctly and responded well to it, and you still have at least a few years of life in it before you have to do a major haul out and recoat.
Keep the content coming. I look forward to it every week.
🥃🇨🇦🤙
Ahh if you are having issues finding sticky stuff remover. Fly spray.
just buy a windows pc
Hi From Sunny South Africa
Roti's are amazing part of our culture and they taste amazing
so many foods go so nicely (butter chicken, curry, fries and cheese, shawarma, felafels… ) with them please see below they origin
Where was roti originated?
Image result for where are rotis from
Indian subcontinent
The roti is a traditional flatbread from the Indian subcontinent. It is normally eaten with cooked vegetables or curries; it can be called a carrier for them. It is made most often from wheat flour, cooked on a flat or slightly concave iron griddle called a tawa.
I would permanently seal that hatch once you own it!
👍👍👍
Curious why you don't invest in something like a Rainman portable water maker? Great Videos and keep progressing forward…
I spent time for work in Suriname, and we found a little place that sold pretty good Rotis – they were done as a like a bowl of stew with the pita on the side, bone in as well. It's just as awkward to eat a bowl of stew laden with bones as it is to eat a wrap full of bones, lol. I don't get it either.
I know some cat owners are fiberglassing over the escape hatches as the risk of turning the cat over is very small versus the risk of water intrusion on a hard passage
I know you have an expensive Mac laptop but it might be nice to at least have some type of backup on the boat. With the new boat Of course things at tight but consider it. Btw nice job on the hatch.
I like for a name, Song of Alice
I would be deducting all repairs off price of boat .
Sounds like the previous owner has an excuse for everything wrong with boat , just dump it on you and screw.
Alot of people will use there teeth to break open the chicken bone and suck out the marrow. 😉 It's harsh on the teeth but tastes so good. Give it a try next time 🤣 not to mention it's super nutritios for you
Greetings! Why do you use the word 'normal ' at the beginning of your episodes? Your life is "normal" !!!! 🙂
Bones add the flavor! Go to Panama and some empanadas and the tamales will have bones.
I have come to prefer the bone-in rotis…
I am guessing you have already determined a path for fixing your Apple computer as these videos are usually 4-16 weeks behind real time.
But for those just watching and wondering about this problem or have come across it themselves here is some information that may help you.
I used to work for Apple tech support and we usually would go through at least 5 different reset scenarios that most of the time will work but if not then we would either set you up with an appointment at the local Apple store or transfer you to the next tier of support where they would then repeat those same scenarios and maybe a few others but if they dont work they send you to a local Apple store too.
At the local store they would repeat the reset scenarios and then do some hardware diagnostics and then usually determine it was a LOGIC BOARD error and would send your laptop to an Apple warehouse for a replacement of the logic board which could cost you upwards of $600 if you didnt have Apple Care+ 9extened warranty) r were OUT of the standard warranty period.
Hopefully the below 5 software scenarios worked for you otherwise I hope you all have Apple Care+ coverage that extends your warranty. If not, I suggest you just get a new Apple MacBook Pro and hopefully all your "DATA" was backed up on iCloud or on an external hard drive via Time machine.
Here are some troubleshooting steps most people can take on their own to try and fix the critical software update issue.
1. Connect to another Wi-Fi network and try again
2. Connect to the internet directly via ethernet in Other Network Options and try again
3. Boot into "Safe Mode" and check for updates:
Procedure – reboot and hold Shift key until the display shows the reset begin, or after the chime/beep.
4. Reset NVRAM – on your Mac (only for INTEL chips or non M1/M2 chip Macs – if you have this newer M1/M2 chip, just shut down, wait 10-15 seconds, then turn back on and the system will automatically check the NVRAM for you and rest if needed)
To reset your NVRAM, you use exactly the same procedure you once used to reset PRAM.
a. Shut down your Mac.
b. Press the power button, and as soon as you power up the laptop, hold down Command(⌘)-Option-P-R.
c. Keep holding down those keys for about 20 seconds. Then let go and allow your Mac to continue starting normally. If you have an older Mac that chimes at boot, hold down the keys until you hear a second startup chime.
d. Note: Clearing the NVRAM resets some settings back to a default state, so check the Startup Disk, Display, and Date & Time panes of "System Preferences" to make sure they’re set the way you want them.
5. Reset the SMC – becuase this is much longer to explain and depends on a few criteria I will leave the link to the Apple support site for the procedures to follow. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
6. Reinstall macOS via Recovery Mode:
Procedure – reboot and hold Command (⌘)+ R (for INTEL ONLY, for Apple silicon see below #8 under Disk Utility)
7. Reinstall macOS via Internet Recover Mode: Procedure – reboot and hold Command(⌘) + Option + R
8. Last resort: wipe disk with Disk Utility and reinstall macOS:
Procedure – open Disk Utility from macOS Recovery
How to gain access to the Disk Utility from macOS Recovery:
Determine whether you're using a Mac with Apple silicon, then follow the appropriate steps:
a. Apple silicon: Turn on your Mac and continue to press and hold the power button until you see the startup options window. Click the gear icon labeled Options, then click Continue.
b. Intel processor: Turn on your Mac, then immediately press and hold these two keys until you see an Apple logo or other image: Command (⌘) and R.
c. You may be asked to select a user you know the password for. Select the user, then click Next and enter their administrator password.
From the utilities window in macOS Recovery, select Disk Utility and click Continue