Sailing Liberty- Repararea ambarcațiunii jos și murdare / Durată reală de viață a bărcii / Baterie Vmax și Gât de gâscă Isomat

33 thoughts on “Sailing Liberty- Repararea ambarcațiunii jos și murdare / Durată reală de viață a bărcii / Baterie Vmax și Gât de gâscă Isomat”

1. I enjoy your videos. On my boat I had new chain plates made by a local marine mechanic. We repurposed the old chain plates as backing plates. I would have new chain plates made that mirror the old ones on your boat. Good luck with your projects.

2. Great team work, the cooking is also helpful.

3. I watch for the sailing and the places you might sail, can't wait for you guys to leave port

4. Another good episode. Thanks from Gary, British Columbia, Canada 🇨🇦

5. The way you are proposing new chainplates makes me think it could easily open the hull/deck joint . All the loads are roughly vertical but also inward towards midship which would torque the bulwark. In my view, you need to face up to cabinet work and try and figure out how it was installed. If you are lucky you can remove large sections intact.

6. Did you actually read the litterature that came with the batteries? Because they definitely are not Military Grade or Super Anything. I had 3 of the VMAX XTR155AH XTREME Deep Cycle Marine Batteries. If you want them to last any kind of life you better set your inverter to cut power at now lower than 80% state of charge and if you want to maximize them and try to get your moneys worth, assuming you psid for them, out of each one Id recommend 90%.

   So if you do the math at those number you don't really habe that 300 amp hour bank you really only have a 30-60 amp hours of usable bank.

   If you discharge them to 60% or down to the 50%. Some people will tell you any agm deep cycle can easily handle I wish you Good luck.. But read your literature, and the amazon ad first. Mine were only rated at 50% discharge for 900 cycles. They were not true deep cycle heavy duty batteries. They were designed to be part of a Solar Array. To serve as part of a big condensing battery to build uip then be able to support an inverter that was matched to the solar array at high voltage. But you can't feed the Direct Current from the MPPT into the Inverter without running it through a battery first as a buffer. They were obviously not designed to be marine or RV deep cycle batteries like they are bein imported and marketed to be .

   Good luck getting them replaced in 4 to 5 months when they fail,if they are the sme battery as mine becUse they sure look like they are. VMAX tried every excuse under the sun except it was our batteries when all 3 quit working about a week after we had 3 days in the upper 40s farenheit after they were just past 5 months old. Then they just started ignoring me. I had to have my attorney send a lotter of intent to file suit and a copy of yhe amicus brief along with all the recorded verbal communication, hand written notes i kept, and all the email communication I saved between myself and their team. The replacement batteries didn't make it even close to a full year either.

   The other 2 batteries in the system the 200 amp hr interstate and Optima blue top that was a deep cycle marine that also had a separate starter battery inside for my generator were just fine and were 2 years and almost 3 years old respectively . Only the 3 VMAX Batteries failed again and they all got charged by the same system. It isn't like they got burned out by a different charger, or had a different draw on them. The hope was they would let us run the generator a lot less when remote camping in hot places and needing the air conditioner or the microwave. That didn't happen. We ran the generator to save the batteries, and they still didn't last.

   I really do hope you have better luck than I did. But having talked to the number of people I have on Reddit, the Better Business Bureau, and other complaint forums that had the same exact experience I did, a lot of whom got frustrated and just gave up. After seeing all the wonderful reviews on Amazon. I felt bad for them. At least I do product reviews and am a brand ambassador myself, and know enough to take the reviews on aces like amazon with a grain of salt and to check theprofilesof the people who leftthereviews and see what their total items reviewed on amazon and their average review score are. Its pretty easy to spot the other Product Reviewers. Especially the newer ones, because Marketers don't care anymore if they get caught doong ad manipulation. Amazon doesn't actually penalize sellers like they used to. So they flat out come out and tell you they want 5 star reviews in exchange for sending you the item and if you don't do it then you will be removed from their lists. They at least used to kind of hide it and say they wanted honest reviews while kind of goving you the old knod and wink.

7. Maybe you should try having a laser cut. They can cut them to size and add all of the holes in there at the same time.

8. I used to install 48 volt battery power plants for telephone systems. If you got across the wrong terminals you would know it. So we used to wrap our tools with electrical tape.

9. THE open sea is beckoning ! Let's get the show on the road. Leave port and make a left turn.

10. Start with the beard 🙂

11. out board chain plates are the only way to go. If you can't see the inboard ones it is guaranteed that they are stressed

12. I need one of those samiches she makes dam my mouth is watering 😂

13. Sailing experience, one man sunfish. Once maybe 12 footer
    Lol
    BUT A MAN CAN DREAM, which I do with every episode.
    Thanks again guys…

14. Hi guys, retired tool and die maker here. Stainless steel will be the best for chain plates, far better rust resistance.
    Stay safe guys.

15. Sailors washing machine…a Homer Simpson Home Depot bucket and a plunger…it actually works…lol

16. I have the same Bruce anchor as a stern anchor- it has the original foundry marking- made in Scotland….actually a pretty good anchor!

17. Assuming you are seeking a safety factor and not an expensive restoration of the upper structure I believe your consideration of a 4" outer strap is sound. Taper and bevel the ends so can't snag anything. Drill/route/file through the rail to sister the upper portion of the chain plate. Drill and fit everything and use a flush machine screw that won't snag anything. Use bits for stainless and a coolant cutting oil. Will drill easily.Then tig weld (Just Tack) to hold everything in place and remove. Weld it. Use all similar stainless to minimize electrolysis and assemble. Project Farm on youtube has done drill sharpener tests. Practical Sailor also publishes many product evaluations and tests, and safety tips. Then keep the stainless (and hull and deck) clear coated or sealed (but not slippery). An extra note about marine wiring oxidation–on my boats I was able to stop oxidation of copper wiring by always passing a trickle current through the circuits when not in use. Might be tricky with modern LEDs but eliminated many headaches. Enjoy your adventures.

18. Well done guys from nz

19. I'd be a little concerned with the 4" horizontal plate idea. The chain plates get a majority of their strength through the vertical fixings that distribute the load down into the hull. I'd strongly suggest sticking with the design that has been working for the last 40 odd years. If your careful and considered with the cabinetry .. you should be fine removing just enough to get the job done. Its always a good idea to play it safe when it comes to holding up the rig.

20. If you go with the horizontal inner and outer reinforcing plates make sure you use 316 stainless steel. 1/4-inch thickness should be sufficient and easy to find. If you or the fabricator can come up with a template it can be programmed into the laser cutter. They can easily program in features including slightly slotted holes to make fit up much easier and radius the outside corners of your plates to look more attractive and perform better. Laser cutting for many years now has become very economical with accuracy to a few thousands of an inch. Make sure they're laser cutting not plasma cutting. You could also use a water jet cutting process less common just as good.

21. You guys are the real deal!❤

22. I believe a good torch guy can blow the holes out. Use stainless washers to clean it up. Dave

23. Hey question are you two married and it looks like you sleep in different beds

24. As to the chainplates I would add this: First, locate a chain plate that you can examine with the least amount of damage to the boat's interior. Look for areas were the glass has expanded or bubbled . If you find such a condition then you may have rust and a break down of the chainplate. If none is showing then you can either conclude the plate is okay or remove the glass to inspect it further. The critical chainplates are those supporting the upper shrouds . Try to examine them above all others.
    Your plan for the plate on the bulwark I believe is less that sterling. I feel this way because you are placing the entire load on a 4" area, whereas the traditional chain plate spreads the load over several feet of the hull. The load is all vertical and I feel 4" of bulk ward is insufficient to bear the load with damage to the hull deck joint. Before I would undertake the expense of the supplement plate I would make sure that the chain plates need replacing. You might want to check out the You Tube channel "Sailing Prism" wherein they detail their method for replacing the chain plates on a Hans Christian 33T..Good luck and fair winds.

25. Great video as always guys! Stainless steel is the way to go, could you get presise measurements and have the machine shop drill all the holes for y'all? Other's in the comments have better ideas and more experience. But stainless is the way to go. 👍❤️🇺🇸

26. Great video!
    I would not run the new chainplate as you have planned because it will put all the loading along one line in the fiberglass hull.
    Even with a full backing plate to sandwich the glass it is creating a point load instead of spreading the load down the hull.
    If it was my boat, I would bolt new chainplates on the outside of the hull using the original bolt locations.

27. You two deserve a new boat from a manufacturer looking for great sincere people to rep their boats. I just sent a chant out (or in) to the multiverse so expect an offer within the next lunar cycle. I have been teaching yoga/meditation etc.for forty years and one of the tools of that Science is chant and visualization/expectation. This boat you are putting so much hard work into could be a great source of extra income…….and it will be good as a "keeper" for years to come. Enjoy your new free lease folks!

28. beware of Jackass Penguins flying by.. they dive bomb everything

29. I am addicted to sailing YT's so you could say I am a good person to rate them so want to thank you both . Educational , easy to watch , not too long or short and by far your productions are the best . You both make a great laid back couple working off each other . I can see a big resemblance to my wife and I . Keep up the great work and you both should come to the Sarasota area . it would be great to meet you . Best show out there thanks !

30. Regarding the chain plates… I am concerned the amount of vertical force that is going to be placed on a 4 inch piece of metal

31. That Lithium battery looked like real nut buster to get into the boat!

32. Helen is soooo distracting …. i find it difficult to pay any attention to the content of the video.

33. If you put that much stress on four inches of the top part of the gunnel, don't be surprised when it rips the top off when you need it most. If it was on a metal hull I'd say sure go ahead.

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