Această Muncă este Necruțătoare. Dar ajungem acolo | Sălbatic Sailing

Această Muncă este Necruțătoare.  Dar ajungem acolo |  Sălbatic Sailing



Mahi înseamnă muncă în maori 😉 Instagramul meu: @boat.fella Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/wildlingssai… Întrebări de afaceri: thewildlingsofficial@gmail.com Mulțumesc foarte mult oamenilor incredibil de generoși care folosesc linkuri de mai jos PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/wildlingssailing Ko-fi: https://www.ko-fi.com/wildlingssailing Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/wildlingsailing Lista de dorințe Amazon: https: //www.amazon.nl/hz/wishlist/ls/155FC0QR78BGF?ref_=wl_share Muzica pe care o ascult de fapt: https://open.spotify.com/playlist/22sIFakj1oGqZlpmXv3kgC?si=557a07debd3b

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32 thoughts on “Această Muncă este Necruțătoare. Dar ajungem acolo | Sălbatic Sailing

  1. Lovely video as always mark and it’s nice to see your home getting clean painted and refined now for the outside work as you said but you still need a comfortable clean living space good old mum 👩

  2. You’re going the wrong way with that mast. Sell it, it’s got a too high aspect ratio, and that just stresses the boat. I know you’re going on chainplates to centre the high mast , but DONT. Get TWO wooden low aspect ration masts like HOKOLAI. With a gaff rig, and rope rigging , you will provide the boat with the flexibility it needs to encounter 10 metre waves and still exist through the hollows. It’s about coping with the wind through the wide seas of the South Pacific. Believe me I’ve been there, it’s enormous. Be very afraid if you don’t do this. The Polynesians did I’d for a reason. See sense.

  3. There's massive savings in buying the bigger west. You know you'll use it, dig in and get a 30kg. East coast Fibreglass supplies, get your dad to bring it over.

  4. If you use a hammer to tap the back of the screw driver before trying to remove the screws it will clean the head of the screw and you will be able to remove it 85 percent of the time… saves you a lot of scraping with a knife at a screw head.

  5. Hey mark. I use the green Anti freeze concentrate and paint it onto the fungus rot. It kills the spores of the root. Then I glass it back. Good work mate. kiaora.

  6. Hey Mark, not sure if you know, but there are two types of polystyrene. Expanded polystyrene (EPS), and Extruded polystyrene (XPS). That el cheapo black and white stuff you made an awful mess with the other day Im pretty sure is EPS. Basically it is small balls of polystyrene (like the balls in a beanbag) that are blown into a heated mould, where the heat softens them and 'glues' them together. Unfortunatley this still leaves voids, so this type is not the best for using on boats as floatation or infill, but it is WAY better than the polyurethane that was there before. PU is not a closed cell foam, and eventually absorbs water. The foamed 'DIY mix it yourself stuff' that expands into a space is the worst of the lot. Acts like a sponge. So, obviously, XPS is the best. It is closed cell, does not absorb water ever, and is often used as structural member in laminated products – like boats….
    It's not cheap and is not easy to find, but often it's used as heat insulation for homes, factories and cool rooms, so can be found at wholesalers, but it's also used by modellers, so small qtys can often be found via hobby outlets. And it is MUCH easier to cut and carve than EPS, and makes much less 'swarf'.
    It's also good to 'shape' using a piece of rough hardwood, or wood with sandpaper wrapped around it. I often use a wood rasp as well, and have used a power sander, but beware, this is for taking off big chunks.
    Reason I raise this is that those sleds your Dad made probably will need some floatation foam in them, and XPS is the best for this. Cut and carve, glue in place then glass over.
    I am quite looking forward to see what solution you come up with for mounting the sleds. Ideally uoiu want the power head of the motor to come up between the beams, and for the leg to be almost horizontal, to keep them out of the water, but also to make it easy to work on them and remocve them from the sleds.
    Eventually, hinged boxes over the top will provide seating and the chance to muffle them with soundproofing foam inside the boxes, so you won't have to shout to make yourself head while motoring.
    Also ideally you want them mounted on the beam that is *just * abaft the centre of the boat, so that they don't need to float up and down much, but not so far back they could lift up too much or be constantly pivoting up and down a lot. Closer they are to the centre of the boat, the easier it is to manoeuvre, spinning the boat in it's own length is the ultimate goal…. Good luck!

  7. Oooh, I can just start to feel this project coming together a little bit. Can't wait to see the upper deck painted up.

    Keep going Mark, I reckon the back is broken to a degree.

  8. I have had good luck with "get Rot" epoxy for wood repairs. It stays liquid for a long time and that allows it to soak in. It seems to stay softer than regular epoxy so I would only use it for spots like that bulkhead where you want it to soak in to a broader area.

  9. Hi Mark…..Mum and Dad.
    its all coming together bit by bit, love Mum's work, she's an Angel, Dad is a Legend, you are so lucky to have such amazing parent, ok enough of the soppy stuff.
    Your wood working skills are improving daily Mark, keep it up. The boat is going to be awesome when its finished, do you have a name yet or is that going to be a big surprise for us??

    Take care and can't wait for the next bit of footage,
    Cheers Craig UK

  10. Have you tried Mr. Boat Epoxy? I think it's a lot cheaper, like 30kg for €220,- and they're using it on the boat building department of the ''Hout- & Meubileringscollege'' (The woodworking/furniture making school in Amsterdam). The place where I have studied, too. It's also nice to visit that school. Such a nice machinery, and the students are making really nice furniture and boats.

  11. Suggest you put more structure to support chain plates. The ply you've put in should have another 1 in of ply then several layers of heavy glass going up and over bulkhead. The fairing cmpnd adds no strength . The thickened epoxy needs to bond to strong layers of fglass.
    Do both hulls
    Graft on
    be strong and do it right

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