Acest lucru a mers prost! Invertoare de putere – Ep 249 – Lady K Sailing

Acest lucru a mers prost!  Invertoare de putere - Ep 249 - Lady K Sailing



Consultați canalul Historsea aici: https://www.youtube.com/@Historsea Săptămâna aceasta instalăm un invertor de putere Leaptrean de 3000w pe o barcă cu pânze și creștem niște consumuri de putere la bord pentru a vedea ce poate face DAR, nu nu merg asa de bine!!! Lady K Discord: https://discord.gg/EHzy8YjmWc Ai nevoie de un consult? Faceți clic aici pentru a trimite un mesaj: https://ladyksailing.com/consults/ Vrei să ajuți să sprijiniți Lady K Sailing? Faceți clic aici pentru a deveni Patron: http://www.patreon.com/ladyksailing Sau aici pentru a face o donație unică: http://www.ladyksailing.com/team-k Urmărește-l pe Lady K pe Facebook: https:// www.facebook.com/ladyksailing sau Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ladyksailing/

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41 thoughts on “Acest lucru a mers prost! Invertoare de putere – Ep 249 – Lady K Sailing

  1. Your 3000 watt inverter is actually a 3 x 1000 watt. It has 3 outlets exactly for that reason, and that is why you are having issues with it. Each of the outlets provides only 1000 watt. I have the same problem with my 2000 watt unit. When I remove the housing cover, I see 2 identical circuits – 1000 watt each.

  2. I would never want to run a laptop off 110 on a boat.. get yourself a DC to DC converter and run off the probably 19 volts it needs. You can DCE to DC invertis or 12 volts up to 19 or 24 down to 19. Pretty cost effectively

  3. When the inverter reports 27A for an angular grinder, is that at 110V or 12V? Because the inverter can output 3,000 W max and at 110V that is max ~27A (~ short for "about").
    If we go up the power source chain, power in being from 14.6V and assuming 20% of conversion losses, your 3,000W at the 110V output as input needs ~247A at 14.6V (or 300A at 12V). It's simple, but the cables I see in the video will throttle such Ampères and will get rather hot.
    Another thing is if the inverter can handle electric motor loads really well. An old-fashioned (uncontrolled, most common) electric motor has an internal resistance of 0 (zero) when standing still and revving up its resistance will rise. This means that at the moment you switch the grinder on, an infinite amount of A wants to travel into the motor, very briefly.
    Where I live, the base phase voltage is 230 – just as a way to have less Ampères, hence less heat loss in cables, and being able to use thinner cable to transport the same power compared to 110V.

  4. If you look at the inverter, you have a hard wire termination point. My inverter instructions states that this allows for a larger current draw than the outlets on the front do. Also "MAKE SURE" your wiring is of the correct gauge wire for the applications, especially on the DC side. Under size wiring will generate heat which causes increased current flow and voltage drop. Not to mention a fire danger.
    I was probing all my DC connections with a laser heat detector. Found a hot connection on incoming solar feed in the process. When I loaded up a DC draw the wire became extremely hot. Once I corrected the wiring, I see a 30% increase in available wattage from the panels.

  5. Connection to the battery was poor??? You would need to measure the voltage on the input of the inverter to be sure that voltage did not drop. It should remain around 11.5V if possible.

  6. Shock no office. Trust their satisfied with the vid. Maybe they should have better man friendly instructions. Good filler vlog for you.
    I've got 10kWh AIO, 15kWh server battery, ~$3.5k usd, overkill for my needs. Forget the grinder, what about my hair dryer!

  7. Really great demo. 425ah battery. If they're lead, 50%C is a good max. That means 210ampsx12 = 2500W max draw. Your leads to the inverter look like #8, you'll have to confirm. #8 rated for about 40amps = 500W.
    I would say that's your problem.

    Edit: my description doesn't match your success with a smaller inverter.

    Edit #2: I just happened across a wire chart: #14=10A, #12=20A, #10=30A, #8=40A, #6=70A, #4=100A, #2=120A, #1=150A, 2/0=200A. Lengths up to 30'.
    One special case: #14=15A <20'.

  8. My first inverter was a used 600W Pursine. Kind of big. After a couple years, I reconnected Pos/neg backwards at the battery and instantly blew the inverter. PurSine says I might be able to repair. Bought a newer used 600W Pursine same model number hoping not to move any mounting screws or wiring. It was considerably smaller and had different (worse) wiring connection. Both work fine but I only draw 100-300 watts due to 110Ah battery and 8-10 ga wires.

  9. I'm disappointed by the rather amateurish installation of equipment screwed randomly against the outside of some board. I wasn't expecting this from someone that has a sailing YouTube video.

  10. I recently upgraded my sailboat with an inverter so I could run my air conditioning. After the initial installation I was having a very similar problem. I theorized that the starting current on the air conditioner was causing a current spike that was tripping my battery monitor on overcurrent or under voltage. My solution was to install a 2.5 fariad capacitor into the system. I have not had a problem since. However, I understand that might not be the right solution for everyone.

  11. This could be a repeat of other comments Tim, but I'm wondering if because you are simply using the utility outlet on the inverter, you are not getting the benefit of the full 3000 watts of the inverter. Normally the inverter would be hard wired to your distribution panel tied to select circuits on a bus bar. There would be integration with your shore power feed via fuses and relays and create the automatic switching from shore power to battery power that is intended with an inverter. Not sure if the rest of your sytsem is configured this way because I don't know where those cables you are connecting the inverter to are coming/going from/to.. That, plus the inadequate wire size of those cables would cause the fault you are experiencing. Just spitballing here, I don't think it's a problem with the inverter itself.

  12. really? you give boat advice? 1. the manual is clear on the 3 outlets being limited to 15a if you only read it but hey its only a boat and this is only a 3kW device so who needs to read a manual – 2. worse is you wire a 3kW device with way undersize DC cable – lame. rookie mistakes.

  13. Not only are the battery leads clearly too small you are using a 16 gauge extension cord. Far too small for the pot or the combination of vac and sander.

  14. Need huge wires to supply power to the inverter. The inverter was beeping to low supply voltage.
    Also the power factor of different appliances act on inverters differently. Ie resistance load like simple heaters. And a ac motor like aircon act completely differently

  15. Tim, bet you the Leap Trend needs to be grounded to work at it's best. Also where is your daughter, have not seen her for a bit. Be happy, be safe

  16. The inverter is likely fine. The beeping is likely low voltage at the input to the inverter due to a voltage drop on the wires from the battery. I agree with other comments suggesting the DC input voltage is low. Making some estimates, detailed below it should work. I recommend using a 24V inverter with inverter wattage values over 2000. This results in 1/2 the voltage drop on 2 x the voltage so the same wires from the batteries can 4 times the power to the inverter. Distance between inverter and battery is ideally short. As calculated below the voltage drop on the wires could be .4 V per meter. The battery meter will likely watch battery voltage. With the vacuum running supplying the battery current, battery voltage, and the voltage at the inverter input will tell you if its the batteries, wiring or the inverter.

    Note that the power draw of both the grinder and sander will increase dramatically when loaded.

    With a 12V supply the inverter must draw roughly 10 x more current on the DC side than the AC side. 120V/12V. Inverters will typically alarm due to low voltage at about 10.8 V . 1200 W @ 120V will draw 10.0 A on the AC side and 100 A on the DC side. Making a guess at the battery hook up wires as 6AWG and 1 m they will have a resistance of 0.003 ohms. This will result in a drop of .3V. If you are using lead acid batteries you can expect the battery voltage to fall .3V for a total drop of .6 V. This should be ok. However, it has been my experience that the wire to end resistance can add another 0.0005 ohms which adds 0.002. Total DC supply resistance can now be estimated at 0.008 ohms. For 100A this will be a voltage drop of 0.8V.

  17. Your battery cables are shit. You need to fix that and make another video. At 12 Volts, you need a lot of amperage to juice 3000 watts of power. 3000/12 == 250 amps. That's too much for your feed cables, they're too small, way too small.
    I like 48V systems for battery feed, cause: 3000/48 == 62.5 amps, which is much less than 250 amps.
    Wire gauge is determined by the amperage; the more amperage, the thicker (lower the gauge) the wire has too be.

  18. laptops run off DC – granted it's probably not 12 volts. But fear not, you can buy DC to DC power supplies for laptops! A lot of new laptops charge via USB C and there are a number of high output, 12V, USB C chargers out there. Even if your laptop isn't USB you can usually find a DC to DC power supply – sometimes even first party! The efficiency is far better and helps you keep that inverter turned OFF as much as possible.

  19. My guess is that you were relay close to smelling hot wires in the recent past. Your leads between your battery bus and new inverter need to be upsized to take any advantage of a higher capacity inverter you might install regardless of the manufacturer. Your new inverter is protecting you better than the old one because you are getting an alarm.

  20. I cannot run my 3k victron with only 1 of my lifepo4 batteries , need 2 in parrelell as the voltage drop is large with large loads

  21. An air conditioner compressor is an inductive load. If it needs 15 amps to run, it may need 30-40 amps to START. You can usually solve that by adding a "soft start" to your AC. This eliminates most of that huge start up rush current, then steps out of the picture.

  22. Voltage doesn't really count. Voltage UNDER LOAD will always be lower, as all the resistance in your wiring becomes choke points.

  23. Fifteen minutes with a multimeter, or a week with a Magic8Ball. Those are the two ways to find out why you are having trouble.
    You buy lunch and I might bring the multimeters.

  24. I'm not sure your batteries are able to deliver the power without the voltage dropping. The cables may also be the culprit. I'm sure the inverter is fine. Your Amperage also doesn't add up. 1000W is about 80 amps at 12 volts. so 1500 watts is actually 120 amps.

  25. Hi thanks for al the quality videos! Could you do one about Radar vs AIS (2w 5w receiver/transceiver etc.) please. Would be very helpful.

  26. Looks more like inadequate wiring ….. 3kW inverter will draw as much 250A from 12v batteries, your wiring with 1kW inverter probable never exceeded 83A.
    Also notice that fused and circuit breakers can have significant voltage drops triggering inverter low-voltage alarms.
    Go to a 24v or 48v system and/or use 0-4AWG cables.

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