Pachetele de stivă sunt un tip de husă de pânză pentru barci cu pânză, care oferă confort și eficiență în manipularea pânzei mari. Împreună cu cricuri leneși, aceste pachete constau dintr-o husă de pânză care acoperă frumos vela mare atunci când este coborâtă și închisă cu fermoar. Beneficiile cheie pentru marinari includ depozitarea rapidă și ușoară a velelor, desfășurare simplificată și efort redus al echipajului. Cu pachetele stivuite, este mai puțin nevoie de descuamare sau pliere manuală; vela se încadrează mai mult sau mai puțin pe loc, simplificând procesul pentru marinarii cu o singură mână sau echipajele mai mici. Pachetele oferă, de asemenea, protecție pentru pânză mare, ferindu-l de intemperii și de expunerea la UV, prelungind în cele din urmă durata de viață a pânzei. Fie că este un marinar experimentat sau un începător, pachetele de stivă îmbunătățesc experiența de navigare, facilitând gestionarea velelor. ––––––––- Înscrieți-vă pentru buletinul nostru informativ prin e-mail: http://eepurl.com/hn3Qyv Acorn to Arabella a început ca o barcă de lemn proiect de construcție în Granby, Massachusetts. Steve și-a început călătoria ca un constructor amator de bărci din lemn, creând o barcă cu pânze din lemn de 38 de picioare în curtea sa: Ingrid a designerului William Atkin cu o platformă Stormy Petrel. Aceste videoclipuri urmăresc călătoria de la tăierea copacilor, la măcinarea cherestea, la ridicare, la turnarea chilei de plumb și acum navigarea cu barca – împărtășind detalii despre prelucrarea lemnului, tâmplărie, fierărie metal, construcția de scule și întreținerea uneltelor pe care le comandă bărcile tradiționale din lemn. Acest proiect de bricolaj final continuă dincolo de magazinul de bărci, în timp ce Steve și echipajul călătoresc și învață să navigheze la bordul bărcii din lemn realizată manual pe care au construit-o. Glumesc cu toate astea, acest canal este despre o Laika siberiană pe nume Akiva. ––––––––– Dacă sunteți interesat să susțineți/ajuta, iată câteva modalități: https://www.acorntoarabella.com/ cum să-ajuți Acorn la lista de dorințe a Arabellei: https://www.acorntoarabella.com/wishlistpriority TotalBoat acceptă A2A! Vă rugăm să luați în considerare utilizarea codului nostru de recomandare Total Boat. Faceți clic aici, apoi faceți cumpărături: https://www.totalboat.com/acorntoarabella. Ne vor da cu 10% drumul! Pentru a oferi suport recurent prin Patreon, FACEȚI CLIC MAI JOS. Doar 5 USD pe lună vă oferă o invitație la sesiunile noastre lunare de întrebări și răspunsuri live numai pentru patron! https://www.patreon.com/acorntoarabella Coloana sonoră originală disponibilă la benfundis.bandcamp.com Urmărește-ne: Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/acorntoarabella Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/acorntoarabella/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/acorntoarabella Site: http://www.acorntoarabella.com
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Huse de pânze reciclate personalizate – Episodul 297 – Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat
37 thoughts on “Huse de pânze reciclate personalizate – Episodul 297 – Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat”
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Always fascinating.
Under sail! Looking good!
That opening scene was gorgeous! Fun to see the colorful old Victoria sails and their original unbleached brightness. But you can't beat the white of Arabella's sails.
You could rig the camera on Akiva collar and a favorite doggy treat on yours and you've got a new camera operator.
The overlaid graphics were a nice touch!
Oh, it's STACK pack. I always thought it was SNACK pack! I gotta say, snack pack sounds more fun.
Very nice bottom under full sail.
As for the thin tubing to connect lazy jacks to. Consider something sturdy that runs the length of the stack pack. Plastic pipe bend and compresses. Mine uses a 1/4” solid fiberglass rod on each side. Just my thoughys
~Good idea, the strops for inboard end of reef points.
You definitely 'don't' want your inboard reef ring to be pulling aft.
You want that reef ring to be tensioned towards the mast as close as your regular tack ring, as stated by Paul.
I do not like 'continuous line' reefing. I like outboard reef lines only. Continuous is wrought with friction and if it blows, you loose control of both in and outboard end of your reefing control.
I like reef hooks at inboard end. However the have to match the geometry of mast, sail and ring size well. Also they love to snag slack lines at the worse time.
I got a new main and my old hooks had to come off. I now use and love the simplicity of just using a piece of line under the goose neck and up, through the reef ring. Just as long as the 'strop' can be positioned and loaded without going over a hard edge or some such that will chafe and eat it up.
I suggest making some significant diameter strops that are simply very long 'soft shackles' 🙂
The comment about using one strop for each reef and just 'jumping them' up as you reef down is a BAD IDEA !
Use one strop per reef point, other wise if anything happens to the strop or outboard end reef line it can only blow open down to the next reef point, instead of one failure leading to your whole sail subject to playing 'Mary Poppins' at the worse possible time.
A suggestion for your outboard reef rings and rigging:
Use an elongated 'D' shackle to connect a small, single block to the reef ring. You can run the line through the reef ring and save that piece of gear but it is a lot more friction, especially in the last 20% of it's travel down towards the boom. The small bullet block gives you a proper 2:1 The only issue it creates is that you will want to hand sew some leather chafe guard over the leech below the ring where the D shackle rubs while not in use.
~ I call bullshit on the Cunningham, use explanation.
What is a Cunningham ? It was devised by a one design sailor with the last name Cunningham.
On a one design or any other 'race boat' there are very defined sail dimensions and class or level rating rules are determined by the dimensions between 'black bands'
The purpose of the Cunningham is to be able to build a sail that has max hoist with very little luff tension. The problem arises when in heavier air you want to wail on your luff tension with more halyard and/or down haul tension. However at max luff dimension that would stretch the sail past the 'black bands' at the head and/or the tack.
So how do you build a sail that will have max hoist under no load yet be able to 'legally' load the luff without exceeding the black bands measurement ?
Use a Cunningham. I am surprised Doyle would put a Cunningham on a gaff cruising sail. It is superfluous ! A Cunningham is a race sail feature.
If at full hoist of the sail you still have plenty of room at the head to gain max luff tension then the Cunningham is just 'eye candy' and can be ignored.
~ To late as you are in motion. you make covers from sails but you can make sails from covers.
~ I wont go into why… just trust me, you DO NOT want to use the topping lift to support the outboard end of the stack pack ! Use the 'wands' in the pack and the lazy jacks to support the pack independent of the topping lift.
I just tried to copy and expand an image of Arabella under sail. It was to grainy to tell. Do you actually have a 'Cunningham' or rather a 'so to speak split tack ring position ? (the tack trimmed off at a 45 degree angle and a ring for the luff and one for the foot) You don't need a purchase on the tack ring, so long as you still have 'throw' on your luff hoist dimension. Why have a racing feature (downhaul purchase) if you can get all the luff tension you need with halyard tension ? Unless you find it easier to hoist with moderate luff/halyard tension and then use a tack purchase to do the final 'wailing' on of tension in heavier air. If so then it either becomes mute, has to be bounced or duplicated for each reef, all three of which are extra gear and work if you can get sufficient luff tension with the throat halyard.
I've been looking for sails for my dismasted Ingrid 38 for years, and it hurts so much to watch you hack these up…
Great use of Victoria again! Making a new set in a couple of years off of some changes that will come from these temps is a great idea. Opening sail shows what a beauty Arabella really is. And Ben is so talented.
Using Victoria's sails for 2 yr temporary Arabella sail covers' templates. For sure valuable lessons to be learned along the way.
Love this yacht , well done in the explanation really great and calming..
I'm curious about something – I have been for quite some time, but the "what's a Cunningham?" question brought it to mind. You (Steve) set the early goal of having Arabella be the first boat you sailed. Now that you have achieved that, are you planning to accept offers to sail on other boats? I have personally always found the sailing community as a whole to be very welcoming. I'm certain you will get many invitations. I suggest that you accept a lot of them, and my reason is that while you can, and clearly do, ask good questions about the things that you have on your boat, going out for a sail with other people from time to time lets you say things like "Hey, your boat has that thing, over there, and I don't have one – what's it for?"
On a side note, the Cunningham, or "Cunningham Downhaul" was developed by, and named for Briggs "Swift" Cunningham III – a New England yuppie name if ever there was one. Swift Cunningham was a crew member on the Dorade when she won the Fastnet. (He did not invent the Dorade vents, but that is the boat for which they are named), and later skippered the Columbia to victory in the 1958 Americas Cup. He also raced cars, and placed 1st in his class, 4th overall at LeMans – twice. So – a competitive fellow.
The Cunningham, as described in the video, tensions the luff, improving your control over sail shape. Specifically, luff tension tends to pull the deepest part of the draft (curve of the sail) forward. Bend in your mast, which can be induced by the vang, the mainsheet, or backstay tension, will tend to move the draft back, so you want to have a means of balancing that out. Loosely speaking, you want the draft a little forward of the middle of the sail. If it's at the center, or (worse) behind the center, more of force generated becomes part of the heeling moment, rather then pulling you forward. Where, exactly, you want it varies a bit from boat to boat, sail to sail, and with wind strength. I'm more familiar with marconi rigged sloops than gaff rigged sail plans, but I doubt that the aerodynamics differ much. Your best resource here is your sail maker – invite him out for an afternoon sail, and let him explain what he considers the ideal sail shape for your sails.
I've heard, but cannot confirm, that the original reason for the Cunningham was not draft control. In the 1950s, sails were still made of cotton, and stretched over time, so the Cunningham was intended to simply pull the sails taut as they stretched. Whether that was true then or not, they are still added to boats and are a very useful sail control.
„Ich messe… eins sechsundzwanzich“
As the fellow is explaining what a Cunningham is it becomes very apparent that Steve has a lot to learn.
You make better drawings than me and im an engineer
Avalon’s cover is bulgy because it’s too long. I’m fixing that this winter. It is a straight cut.
Sewing? I can sew, it's not the best looking but it works. Shame I'm in a different country or I'd help. 🥴
I watched THE BUILD FROM THE KEAL UP GREAT JOB
10 years from now when you look back on these first months, will you curse your lack of "Sailorly Skills" or will you celebrate them? I suspect the latter. I admire your ability to try new things and fail with grace before trying again with newfound and hard earned wisdom. If it's ugly but it works, it isn't wrong – but it is still ugly and it still works.
I enjoyed the opening scene. Sail covers seem like a great idea.
The purpose of Cunningham is too often mistaken. Cunningham is for controlling the draft position, it has little to no effect on flatness.
Seems odd that you didn't seem to allow any excess for hems and seams. Do you intend to add a folded hem cover on the edges? There also didn't appear to be any fabric for the inner cover flap with the zipper.
Snow bird are funny. If It were mine. and did not want the sun shining on ot wh not in use, I use canvas. The aging what the purpose of that, It's a damn sail boat.Sould have been in the plans from day one
Hello Steve
Have you thought of putting your boat in dry dock for the winter?
Nice one steve the reuse of the sails is not bad idea especially on cost so i commend and i would do the same so good luck to you it's yours and Robin boat you do the necessities for your benefit good luck see you next time 😊😊
Really love seeing the boat moving like that through the water. I bet you guys are itching for the weather to get warm!
Boats not moving from their spot is a very common disease – hopefully one that doesn't afflict Arabella !
Why not have a loose footed main/mizzen?
Having a Cunningham in main and mizzen is a good idea. I found it ideal to use as a first reef. Especially upwind to take edge off.
Wow so many terms I have never heard before. Sounds like it's is a really complicated process. Making covers and redo of the sail connection to the mast….
Yay 🎉
WHat language is sail guy speaking? 🙂
It's always good to recycle, but if you are using old sails wouldn't they already have fairly severe UV damage themselves and therefore they won't offer complete UV protection to your sails and also wear out much faster? Also if they are old canvas type sails, would they offer any UV protection at all?
I have been watching this channel from the beginning. I have always been impressed with Steve's ability to do anything that comes his way. Steve you have a great outlook on life, and so level headed when it comes to getting things done. I look forward to your videos because i feel so relaxed and calm while watching them. You and Robin make a great team. May God bless you and keep you safe on your many journeys to come.