Sail Life – imprimantă 3D la bord și mergeți la o stație de urmărire abandonată

37 thoughts on “Sail Life – imprimantă 3D la bord și mergeți la o stație de urmărire abandonată”

1. Love your t shirt, Ava! 😎🥰💕💕💕

2. Voltage fluctuations are no joke. Here in the Philippines, we sometimes see extreme voltage swings… from 260v down to 75v. AVRs are a must-have.

3. Wait… ”Our next refit”? Have i missed something?

4. I can't wait for them to use the 'Sale Life' stamp and see that it's mirrored.

5. super anal

6. Everlanders YouTube he makes some useful thing living in his expedition vehicle. When you can’t buy it make it. He is just like Mads just not in a boat

7. That's a pretty impressive color match between the filament and the hatch.

8. Faced with the option of just unplugging shore power, and buying another big blue gizmo, WHAT WILL MADS DO????

9. Once again, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and can’t help but notice you answered just about every question here on the comment section. I know you can’t do this every time, but it sure was refreshing to see taking the time to answer viewers questions. Cheers from MICHIGAN

10. I'm guessing the sail life stamp will print out backwards!

11. you could have used a dimmer to reduce your incoming voltage

12. There is always shrinkage 😉

13. Finally I have waited so long for you to cover that hole on the nav station 🎉

14. UV with destroy outdoor parts.
    I printed bits from ABS and PETG for my kayak and they dont last in the sun

15. Could you simply add a voltage regulator at the front, as the voltage is received and tune or regulate what’s coming in to Athena.

16. Maybe Mads your next boat could be entirely 3D printed 🙂

17. Mads, I don’t know where you guys are planning to stay in the US but if I were you I’d take a good look at Stuart Fl
    Stuart has literally dozens of boat related sippy facilities
    And shopping galore

18. Print Ava a phone holder with belt loop and lid

19. An old school transformer has taps to accomodate input voltage. Get one of them.

20. Just a warning on the 3d printed plugs. If that's a 'wet' space you may have to spend extra time trying to keep them clean, as 3d prints are not 100% water impermeable and mold and such likes to slowly grow in between the extruded layers. It might pay to epoxy or coat the surface, or if you printed in ABS Vapor smoothing can be used to make a perfectly smooth impermeable surface, at the cost of warping dimensions slightly.

21. Thank you for plugging that gap between the pole and the nav station, I've been staring at that for YEARS!

22. Mads… I love your films on Youtube… You remind me of Professor Proton in the tv show… With Sheldon. in Big Bang Theroiri .. i dont mean that in a bad way…. sorry my denglish… are you building the Protom reverse machine on you vessel? asking from a friend….

23. My son has several 3D printers and I got him a filament warmer / dryer off of amazon. They work great.

24. Lol. "Now we are sanding and sailing our way around the world"

25. "…somewhat extensive refit…" cracks me up every time.

26. Shouldn't the leather stamp thing be reversed?

27. All you had to do was buy a BUC Power Regulator

28. Thank you so much Mads for the 3-D printed Escutcheon Plate for the Nav Station grab bar. All of my hair has grown back and I have boundless energy. Pete

29. I have had great results with Overture filament. Good choice.

30. As busy as you are making plastic doodads, you probably don't get a chance to watch other sailing channels. I saw one recently called "Sailing With Thomas". He's a Norwegian single-handing his 55' Bavaria around the world right now. The episode you might want to review is about all electric or even hybrid boats for cruisers. He currently uses a Fischer-Panda generator! His opinions about them may (or may not) surprise you! Can you print out a new generator? 😉

    Congratulations on finally finishing the refit of Athena! That pole-hole was a serious distraction for me! 😉

    If Ava wants to emboss a thin material like copper sheets, that die will give a raised embossing on the opposite side.

31. Here in the US you will find between 115-130 volts. Although 120 is most common.

32. Just a tip, but keep your parts closer together when printing. It will mean less travel for the printer between parts, which results in faster print times.

33. As someone who does CAD for a living, this makes me so happy to see!!! I’ve been watching for the past 5 years or so and have been waiting for this day. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

    As far as keeping your filament dry, you can find a dry box (like a pelican case or similar) and put some of those silica packets in it to keep moisture out

34. Stamp … reverse …

35. Regarding CAD design – Get a 3Dconnexion SpaceMouse. It just makes everything so much easer!

36. A tip for getting a nice finish is to use a spray filler for plastics (for car body work etc). They cover up those layers easily, and can be sanded down for painting. 
    The filler will of course alter the dimensions slightly, but just scale it down a bit before print. Sanding the layers it a hassle, and usually still doesn't give a uniform finish.

    Over time with the varying temperature and UV, PLA will become more brittle.
    For "permanent" parts like that I really do recommend PETG. It's almost as easy to print as PLA, but you'll have a bit more stringing, and maybe tighter tolerances, so there is usually a bit of tweaking on the model when going from PLA to PETG.

    As for movement – no issue. You could probably mount that printer upside in the headliner and it would still work without problems.

    As long as you purchase quality filament, moisture is usually not a problem. I've had a roll of Prusament sitting open in a bedroom for 3 years, and it's still printing fine.

37. Not sure if it bothers you, but I believe you can disable the clock on the oven so you don't have to have that "12:00" blinking.
    While the oven is off – hold Clock and "Plus" button until it goes dark.
    It could also be just hold any combination of two buttons until it switches off. F.ex. hold "+" and "-" until the clock goes dark. To enable, just hold again.
    Any timers, countdown etc. are in use, it will still work as normal.

    Hopefully it does retain the setting after losing power…

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