O punte simplă pentru catamaranul oceanic al unui om simplu.

35 thoughts on “O punte simplă pentru catamaranul oceanic al unui om simplu.”

1. sleevig!

2. love it Mark . rustic practical and perfect. ….killing it mate!

3. Mark if you have any day's when you are not feeling so good. Do not do anything it is not worth hurting yourself or the Boat. We all have off day's. I am watching another guy on you tube he is working on a Chatoe in France he is mainly working on his own but watching him with all the wood and tool's you may want to take a look it is called return to the Chataugh or something. It is a massive place and he is putting a video out just about everyday.

4. Great video, and great work!

5. Great video as always Mark.
   Love your self effacing style posting the mishaps and the successes👍.

   Dinghy motor combination.
   Looked to me that you may need to adjust the motor trim and bring the prop end a little further forward that should help keep the bow down and get you up on the plan 👍

   M10 bolts I'm no engineer but reckon they should be fine.
   Maybe when you get back to the UK you could drill out the " hard to get at holes and ask your uncle to tig weld a sleeve into the holes?

   Only other thing.
   Given the expansion and contraction rate of SS. When the weather warms up the longer bolts may need nipping up.

   How good are surgical gloves to keep your hands clean saves having to constantly wash your hands 👍

   Cheers.

6. Boat timeeee! <3

7. Work in manufacturing for an engineering company. Grade 8 and up should be more than enough. Grade 8 is used to mount suspension components to vehicles. Using your ropes and multiple bolts to distribute force, you're fine. Just keep an eye on those drilled holes in the stainless steel. They'll be more prone to rust and weaken. But it won't happen overnight. Make it a yearly check. Your mast will likely need grade 12 because of fulcrum forces and reduced bolt count.

8. You likely thought through this – In rough seas they might have waived that rise between the pontoons and washout the engines and lower deck.

9. *waves

10. good job

11. Wow, that was a BIG step in many ways. The deck seems a bit bouncy still but strong enough, I am sure there is more to do with it yet. Still think the engine frame would be better welded, OR getting some blocks made up that you can slide in to the places with no strengthening tube in them. Would be a REAL fiddle but with what you are going to do much better to OVER engineer? Suppose you will be ready for more Sea Trials once you have both engines sorted 🙂Hopefully the Weather will now be starting to improve and progress will run away, another great video. Thank you SO much for entertaining me / us.

12. If you want someone to make calculations, then you need to put up the measures and material, that is, at least a simple drawing. So angels and forces can be calculated.

    But yes, if these bolts can lift a car, they should be enough. And putting in larger bolts, with larger holes, will make the construction weaker.

13. Stainless and aluminum will react poorly when in contact. They will corrode out in 2 years.

14. I'm impressed by your work but i'm even more impressed by the fact that you never fell into the water with all those close call !

15. Hi Mark, I am a newer follower and I’m enjoying your videos. Please please use caution when cleaning anything in gasoline, realize it is all over your hands and they would be one of the first things to ignite if something were to happen. Keep it outside of the boat and be careful!! Thank you

16. The ocean will batter those boxes to pieces, leaving the outboards trailing on bits and pieces of cable and strut. I proper bracket on the end of each pontoon with new electric start outboards with tilt feature….big bucks but the way you are doing this looks super sketchy……..

17. Great Job Mark!!!

18. If the block with the cams was the other way up you could lift easier? No? Kicking strap format it would run through the cams and lock and you would be standing for a more natural pull. Pulling down in a confined space looks awkward. Releasing obviously takes no space.

19. Are you not worried about galvanic corrosion between the the Ali and SS?

20. Hi, those cross metal bars looks like they touch the beams. Would that not damage the beams in heavy seas when the bout flexes? Have you ever looked at Sailing Luckyfish? He had a special way to do the lashings.

21. Good on ya son 🤙

22. If there were issues with the steelwork – I think Hanneke would have driven a scrap van directly to the marina by now. Its a hugely overbuilt Timber structure and there may be some twisting of the whole thing but once rig is on and tensioned it will stiffen up even more. Its a very inspectable structure and you will see any crushing or deformation. M10 will be fine. M12 is used on corner adapters for S52 Truss at Rock concerts. We could hang your whole Boat from that stuff.

23. Well. for the cockpit area I do not like the idea of threaded rod in such a one-chance-only situation in steel tubing into which a tubular insert for the bolt has b not been welded. I have seen what the sea can do, and I have seen structural failures that should in theory have been impossible, but the ocean waves are sometimes big and have great inertia, and so does your craft, and when they coincide in opposite directions, disaster can and often does happen.

    Accordingly, I would design for the crossing of your beam by the bolts, on top, a bracket WELDED and covering the existing system. It should resemble a squared off horse shoe and be bolted where the beam indent occurs, as well as on the stainless steel existing down-structure suspending the cockpit sole. On top of these brackets should be mounted a bow handle which will double as a cleat or a tie down, or a canopy securing point/ Believe me, open cockpits are not good, I never use them. I ascribe to the edict that any damn fool can be uncomfortable.

24. Hi Mark
    What petrol do you use to your dinghy engine?
    E5 or E10 .
    If you use E10 maybe it is too much alcohol for your engine.
    Nice to watch you 👍
    And good luck

25. Ahhhh the memories of building my Wharram… my decks were lashed on so fasteners holes were eliminated

26. Tufnol: very good.

27. Mark. I gotta keep it REAL with you bro.
    You are DINKING around with bolts and junk wood in a ghetto pretend cockpit.
    You are fornicating the canine bro.
    you are getting NOTHING important done , or even
    started for that matter !!!

    Seriously Mark , what is the point of this , the Videos , the Subscribers and minimal income ?

    You need HELP Mark.
    At the rate you are going that boat won't touch open water until the 4th of NEVER.

    You need someone to light a fire under your ass and stop playing and tinkering and get to work dude. Finish the chainplates and buy the 1/19 cable and hardware you need to get at least a mast up. Get a Forestay and Furler and make it into a sailboat
    because right now you have a Life of Pi raft at best and all you need is a Tiger ( or a stray cat ) and you can drift to the Azores.
    Seriously Mark
    You are not doing ANYTHING productive on this project and you are almost starting to look Foolish.
    and what are you doing with everyones money you get for helping to fix that boat ? I see almost NOTHING of monetary value. gee wiz man

    Cheers Dude.

28. Sister bolt angle iron on both lengths. Never felt good about the box stock.

29. Thanks

30. Im a mechanical engineer for aerospace. M10s are fine. Remember the 200kg is spread/divided between many fastener contact points. My point is you don't have 200kg going through one fastener. your foot print size is also a big factor which is large enough. All good. Cheers

31. The problem is not the bolt diameter, the problem you're going to have is keeping them tight, they will crush the section and become slack. A bodgers solution which would fit your style of construction would be to have machined some lengths of hardwood to fit inside, left protruding a few mil and chamfered off with a sharp plane or a sanding disc it would make the whole job look streets better.

32. Not the bolt the problem beside the thread end will cut body parts unexpectedly. It that tiny nylon rope and pulley your using leverage with muti pulley that not even worth the time to install, in the sun all day salt air and water the first heavy haul you need to do 6 month it’s going to break, the design all wrong unless your used thick thick stain steel cable abd a motor or a one way lock wrench pulley type the leverage strain on a iron bar handle not on tiny rope that wraps around few pulley of diffrent bending . If the rope broke what the alternative an can you do it in a storm. LOL you can’t repair much at sea

33. I think its imperative to fit a flag when building a ship.nice ship and video

34. Well Done Mark. The Deck just makes the boat so more friendly and safe. I would put a brace between the two beams, where the top blocks are attached. The downward load will transfer to try and compress the two beams. You can used the eye bolts to connect a truss between the two beams. I would use the section rectangle Box section and cut the end out like a square C. then drill the holes to suit. As for the Strength. Suck it and See. A safety chain to the motors will save them if something breaks and Bonus, slow down thieves. Kiaora.

35. Mark, have you taken up a position of mainly hand tools for your refit? Seems like a small circular saw and grinder would save you hours in the long run…. ?

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