Lipirea pe acoperișul căsuței și cum vom termina arcul? [EP98]

32 thoughts on “Lipirea pe acoperișul căsuței și cum vom termina arcul? [EP98]”

1. I’m doing the galley on my yacht at the moment, Laminex/ Formica around the cooking stove. Origo 6000 Port side saloon storage too.

2. Use the old cone and get you some of that rattle can chrome. Spay up that bowsprit and keep what you have left of rattle can. In case your bowsprit starts to rust the you can protect it.

3. Just love the updates. For my 2c worth on the bow-sprit issue – I think the stacked foam looked much more fluid than following the original lines. I wonder however, if the blunt shape of the end of the sprit is what is missing in terms of the overall look? Below the sprit is only 50% of the final look in that area?

4. I think whichever you do will look good but when renovating old properties we make the conscious decision to make additions look like additions so there is a clear delineation between old and new. I like the fact that you can then see a history of the building (in this case boat)

5. Make look like a clipper 😊

6. Best boat build on YouTube ❤

7. NO clipper bow please!

8. You could always take a picture and draw on it .

9. I think I would hire you to figure out the best shape to complete the bow of the boat. Hahaha, I do agree that incorporating the bowsprit into the bow makes good sense. What if you were to somehow do a C curve from just in front of the bowsprit support to the new union to the existing bow?

10. I would do a new bow design tbh. even if it is much more work. The S like shape is a bit akward for a bow, thus I would move the bow section forward and then go straight down – a nice modern looking new bow.

11. I think I would reshape the whole profile. Run some battons all the way down to the waterline bend. So instead of a plumb bow (90 degrees) you get like an 80 or 70 degree bow that is straight. Once you have the new faux stem line, run battens back to the hull to get a fair curve. Fill it all with foam. I don't think there is going to be an attractive way to to bridge from what remains of the fake stem to the roller gussets. Anyway, keep playing with it. All this 3D stuff is tough.

12. Prefer the bow shape using the foam pieces and the gussets.

13. Definitely blend it in. You are on the right track

14. Hi, in my opinion I'd abb the new bow structure lower to help the lines of the bow flow smoothly into the bowsprit, I'd use a large piece of paper/card to get the lines right.

15. Beautiful again! Love to watch your work!! Real craftsmanship..

16. Every bow needs a figurehead… like one of the interior artwork animals. 🙂

17. I reckon if you fit old bow then cut a flat piece that goes between the gussets with a cutout that fits round old bow following angle of gussets down the it will look good and like bow and sprit were built as one.

    Reckon curved forward looks funny.

18. I think i would remove the rest of the bow completely, and have a flat modern "Hanse" look.

19. The way you were filling out with the foam under the bow sprit looks like the way to go. You don't want a water trap under the sprit that will cause drag. Any water that rises as the bow lowers needs to get pushed out sideways. But massively impressed with the work, man. Great job and thanks for sharing the ride. She will slam, and her stern will be "slapping" at anchor, but lots of fun and fast passages.

20. These watershed moments make amazing content exceptional. Can't wait to see Duracell moored up in Ireland after the transatlantic spin

21. Hi guys, I think personally adding all that Foam in there , And shaping it. I think it’ll look a lot better than just putting the old bow back on because that way it looks like it was made to be like that but that’s only my personal opinion and it probably doesn’t count for much. Keep up the good work. love your videos Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia from the big island.🧑🏾‍🦽🏝️🦘🐨🇦🇺🌏🏝

22. I'm really impressed by the two of you. Well done

23. How about taking the whole false bow off and rebuilding it as a plumb bow at right angles to the bowsprit? Would match with the modern look of the angular bowsprit. Go between the bowsprit gussets and don't blend them in.

24. Great Job on the roof. Like the curved bowsprit piece as long as you can get it watertight.

25. Bravo!

26. Keep it simple, Matt. Just close in the space between the gussets with a flat inclined surface and bring the line of the old false bow up to meet it. No fussy cavities and also the "cover plate" will massively increase the strength of the gussets – not that they necessarily need more strength – seems very well engineered to me.
    Personally I don't favour a curved fairing into the bowsprit. That would introduce a clipper bow effect quite inappropriate to the vessel's style. Better to retain as much of the plumb stem effect as you can.

27. to my way of thinking, I'd get rid of the false bow and go back to the stem. Just a thought

28. Smart move with the foam, absolutely the way to do it. But i would suggest making a new angle, slightly “negative” from the most forward part of the gussets down to the waterline (or below). So there will not be any curvature from the side

29. How will you remove the stringers with the roof on? Now the screws are covered with the roof.

30. At the risk of speaking heresy I think you will need some serious stainless chain guides inside and under where the chain enters the channel in the bowsprit. She is a big boat and in a strong wind with waves, hauling the anchor as she 'tacks' from side to side the chain will wear through the glass. Sometimes it's pretty brutal!

31. Matt!!! You’re on the right track!!! Glue them foam pieces in and shape her like you like it. That’s exactly what I was thinking.

32. Add a steel plate near the top to protect against the anchor bouncing off of and damaging the hull when retracted?

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