TOTUL NU ESTE GREUT CU TRIMARANUL MEU DETERIAT DE URAGAN | Ep.120

TOTUL NU ESTE GREUT CU TRIMARANUL MEU DETERIAT DE URAGAN |  Ep.120



Mingulay va avea nevoie de ceva de lucru cu siguranță. Din fericire, pagubele cauzate de uragan nu sunt o problemă, dar postul de compresie este! Doar lucruri de viață cu barca. Vă rugăm să vă abonați și să comentați mai jos! Urmăriți-mă pe: Instagram- alex_goes_sailing Facebook- Alex Goes Sailing #sailing #alexgoessailing #boatwork

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35 thoughts on “TOTUL NU ESTE GREUT CU TRIMARANUL MEU DETERIAT DE URAGAN | Ep.120

  1. Not sure grinding out and filling gel coat crack is a long term solution.
    The crack are caused by either an external damage, or an inherent fault. If the latter, needs addressing

  2. If the Amas hatch is symmetrical then perhsps just spin it around so it opens the other way. Then it can open fully and rest open on the amas without having to hold it.
    Look into hyfield levers for quick stay and shroud tensioning. I have them on my gaffer so i can lower the mast while under way and get under bridges.
    That propane locker is frightening, im sure you will research modern standards for construction and gas safety.
    Good luck on your project. Illbe watching from the USA.

  3. 9.8 hp outboard is fine. Assuming it is a high thrust, ie designed for sail boats.
    Going any faster just wastes a lot of fuel.
    It is the static thrust that count, needed when making way against a full Gale.
    The weight of a 20hp would really spoil the sailing performance.

  4. those transparent entry "flaps" sound like toughened glass, if so – very cost effective just to polish them clean using (up to) 3000 grit wet and dry. check out glass car headlight restoration processes

  5. Hey Alex, I'm A big fan of trimarans also.. In fact that's how I first found your channel you were evaluating or testing a small like a 20 foot trimaran. I had texted encouragement to you to get or look at trimerands more I frankly feel it's the best way faster to get between points. But congrats and good luck, can't wait to see how it goes.

  6. Love it. With your mast raising, which is a brilliant design by the way, just have a look to see if the B frames (from hull to just under spreader) would restrict your mast from bending. If they don't allow it to bend, there will be some pretty big stresses on the pinions. It's fine if they were designed for the stresses but that is normally taken care of by the lower shrouds and not your mast raising struts.
    As an aside, you do the same type of sailing I do so I really enjoy your vids.

  7. Looks a lot of sorting. If it was me I would have to strip the whole boat do all repairs to structure and fully paint inside and out .
    Clean everything as I put back or replace fully rewire etc. This is exactly what I have just done to me 22 foot trailer sailor and
    it over a year of weekends ( not every weekend ) and that is 22 foot on monohull . Do not think that way would be possible with that boat .Good luck as I just see a huge amount of work but am sure you will get it sorted and back in the water . looking forward to see the mast system in operation .

  8. have a word with #ruddercraft, they can make you up an HDPE rudder and centerboard with a propper NACA profile. might even give you a discount for some publicity. My new rudder from them for my Jag25 is coming tomorrow 🙂 like you, a big project. got to drop the swing keel, put a new bushing and pivot pin in for starters, rigging next. I did write a letter to santa.

    I found an American shorelin'r trailer which I'm adapting for mine it's a beast at 8ft wide and an I beam aluminium chassis which is 😍. Don't forget trailer regs for breaks. Both axles need to be breaked and auto release for reversing. Handbrake has to be mechanically activated…. go figure that's the one thing I've got to figure out the breakes are hydraulic on my trailer and amazing.

  9. P.S. get a small lead acid for the outboard, have the outboard charge that directly then get a victron orion dcdc charger to charge your lithium only after the starter battery is charged. You then always know you have electric start etc, and you don't draw too much power from the outboard alternator and burn it out.

  10. Great video Alex. I watched the whole lot. Looking forward to seeing the Completed project. I'm going to get my boat out next year, keep an eye out for my videos

  11. Float joints.
    Not sure how the deck / hull is bonded, but in due course I would want to get rid of that flange. When the float poles into a wave it will not allow a clean water flow and contribute to risk of a cartwheel capsize.
    Probably a big job as structural, but it would also look so much better. Ok you lose the rubbing strake, but you will learn to take care.
    Hinges.
    If you do go offshore consider what can be done to prevent a catastrophic failure should a bolt fail, particularly the forward ones.

  12. I have the exact same Trimaran!
    Mine is hull #0318, curious to know what yours is?
    The transom plate will show you PC|T_ _ _ | _ _

    In my case, PC|T0318|505, the first four blanks indicate hull (#0318), the final three digits indicate month/year of manufacture. (May 2005)
    (Performance Cruising, Inc. Trimaran Manufacture year began in 2003)
    Tony Smith, designer
    I personally know that 0315 was destroyed in Hurricane Sally in Florida … mine survived.

    Also, check the softness of the deck joint at the base of mast-raising support ‘B’.
    During the mast raising procedure, that triangle carries maximum downward load (the mast is heavy), especially just prior to transitioning to horizontal.
    I always have a second line from the mast base to an adjacent winch as insurance while lowering/raising the mast. If your main line were to fail … well, let’s just say … ‘timber’!
    Your frame ‘D’ is bent, maybe from incorrect adjustments, or as a result of the transport accident. Balancing the line adjustments/lengths is vital for smooth mast raising.
    I have seen decks driven downward due to incorrect line tension. As I mentioned earlier, the stresses and tension involved during this event are intense.
    Once she’s vertical or horizontal, the stress is minimal.

    I have a heavy 50 hp Honda on mine, but I am seriously considering 2kw electric pods in each ama. Too much weight hanging off the transom reduces performance!
    The boat was built with Kevlar and polyester. Make certain you match repair materials!

    All the best.

  13. Alex took me three goes to watch all of this video. Yes, there is a lot of work, but I am sure you are the man to do it and look forward to the stories. 👍👍👍

  14. Re the puddle you say collects near your mast: check both the compression post and how it is seated on keel and coachroif underside, and the coachroif it self. Is balsa present & collapsing due to water penetration? I had a similar puddle form when coachroif support began to fail.

  15. I wish you all the best in your restoration I love Tri's, we had a one off 9mtr Tri built for a race to Corsica back in the 80's, great boat really fast we owned it from 1995 to 2000 on the Atlantic coast in France wish we still had it. Will keep looking at your site good luck. Clive in S W France

  16. Lots of work ahead Alex , I had the same to do with my boat. Stainless steel bolts get rusted with time best use if available 316 grade on places in contact with water.

    Having a boat is pleasure in the water and enjoinment fixing it. At least for me is.🙂

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