Asta nu ar trebui să facă asta: Îndepărtarea plăcilor interioare ale lanțului | Înțelepciunea navigată [S6 Ep4]

33 thoughts on “Asta nu ar trebui să facă asta: Îndepărtarea plăcilor interioare ale lanțului | Înțelepciunea navigată [S6 Ep4]”

1. Looks like fun….. not. 😂😂 But, great patience! ✝️🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊

2. Can you not use penetrating oil like WD-40? Or did you not show it?

3. I love that you talked yourself out of it.

4. Why not g10 backing plates and oversized dyneema soft shackles for chain plates? No metal, corrosion…. CHEAP, Easy to inspect and replace. Only downside would be no turnbuckles which I know you’d prefer. But no bolts seems like the best way with salt!!!

5. You should keep the old bolts, for tough residential jobs like hanging pictures or attaching plant brackets. If you have a lathe you can also turn them into pretty piles of blue / brown useless chips. 8^) Cheers!

6. Good video!
   From watching other sailing channels, if you want to increase your Patreon numbers it would be helpful to get your wife in a bikini ………………or maybe you in a bikini, whatever floats your boat I guess.
   (grin)

7. @01:25 Wish I had been there: I would highly recommend on assemblies that old and corroded or encapsulated, backing nuts off until flush with the bolt end then whacking it with a heavy hammer to free the bolt head.

   Guess you will find a way to get the bolts out from the other side.

8. @05:10 Whenever a "cheater stick" is employed, it is very risky to add a 12-point socket or wrench to the combination. In fact, only 6-point sockets for high-impact wrench use should be employed. (Or appropriate high-impact bits, if other than hex-head bolts are encountered.)

9. Always tighten the fasteners by tightening the nuts, not the bolts. Ootherwise torque specifications are incorrect and the bolts can defect. Loosening the nuts first on removal is easier and saves broken bolts.

10. Wow, nice Rolex !!
    Sometimes a heatgun on the nuts can make it expand enough to loosen.
    Another idea when hammering the bolts out is to leave the nuts on half way so not to expand the end that way when eventually it goes through the hole it slides through, or also if re using it doesn't damage the threads.
    I find your videos highly interesting, a lot of knowledge. I have learned lots from you. Exelente work

11. I had this amazing experience once when I was assisting the engineers to remove huge three inch nuts from the four axles of an oversized overweight extremely hot and deadly chemical trailer. I needed a six foot long cheater stick to jump up and down using all of my 325 pound six six oversized headed self to overcome the break over torque. Anyway, the engineers handed me their six foot cheater stick and it was surprisingly lightweight. They said it is super dooper High modulus composite pipe designed for chemical plant high temperature extreme pressure non corrosive piping. They likely saw the amazed look on my face then handed me a featherweight little ratcheting wrench that felt like a feather. Seriously, my chrome Vanadium wrench weighs like a bowling ball. I literally jumped down as hard as I could on the featherlight tools trying to break them as I retorqued the semi trailer axles spindle nuts. Im telling you these tools were stronger than steel but light as a feather plus they don't rust.

12. Lead pipes work great for cheater bar

13. My friend why just Borrow an electric impact gun, or use a longer break a bar or ratchet ?

14. “Give to me a fulcrum on which to plant my lever, and I will move the world.” Archimedes. The beefiness of your rigging is making me feel inadequate lol. My boats rigging seems chintzy by comparison

15. Use 6 point socket!!!

16. 👍👍👍

17. I just want to say how satisfying it was to see you rip out that rusty metal! Nice episode this week! 😁

18. Wonderful balls of rust❤ so glad you're getting that mess out of there

19. Next time borrow a small compressor and an air hammer … knocking the bolts back and separating the chain plates would have went much quicker.

20. So… any new thought/feeling about bonding? I've heard both arguments, and this mess seems to support the "anti" camp's view on it.

21. The transfer of the load from the chain plates to the hull should not just be by the bolts (in shear) but by friction. The bolts clamp together and then load is transmitted by friction. That's why the bolts need to be nice and tight.

22. What scares me here, is boatbuilders get parts and material at wholesale cost. This is all retail.

23. Probably wouldn't have guessed that you were a DDS. But since I do now, I couldn't help noticing that your approach and tool handling extracting the chainplate hardware reminded me of tooth extractions I have had and seen. Keep up the great wirk. Mark, from SFO bay area (Santa Clara).

24. I'm really glad to see this kind of video. It's really interesting. Carry on!

25. I'm surprised you'd not needed a cordless impact driver prior to now.

26. Harbor Freight 1/2 impact or at least small torque multiplier would save lot of sweat and tension. But this power tools vibrates a lot so keep that in mind to not cause cracks

27. I'm pleased you are using your tools not mine. I would use what we call a breaker bar with the proper sockets on a job like this, ratchets are not made to do what you are doing and could break with devastating results, don't teach bad habits that could injure someone else.

28. What a hard job.

29. I very much enjoy your videos and a lot of very practical working methods and items shown on a regular basis. A lot of good comments and hints below, Sean Flanagan, has made some good points. If I can add something of use it would be, don't use a torque increaser extention bar, with a ratchet, the ratched will be damaged and may fail suddenly under excessive (for its designed function) load.

30. 0:13: ⚓ Dismantling old chain plates and rusting iron bars to reinforce the hull for new massive chain plates.
    2:41: ⚓ Challenges encountered while attempting to remove interior chainplates during boat maintenance.
    6:28: ⚓ Struggling to remove rusted chain plate due to fused bolts, revealing unexpected rust plates.
    9:46: ⚓ Risks of Removing Loaded Chainplates
    11:57: ⚓ Challenges with interior chainplate removal due to previous sealant application.

    Timestamps by Tammy AI

31. Impact driver, easier, safer, faster. I've been working on rusty stuff for decades, my first air impact driver changed working on rusty stuff forever.

32. so… where are you getting the bronze hardware from?

33. should use a beaker bar not ratchet to undo tight bolts alot of load on small ratchet teeth

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