Cum arată o zi de yachting în Florida {Formarea de noi proprietari de iahturi}

Cum arată o zi de yachting în Florida {Formarea de noi proprietari de iahturi}



O zi incredibilă de pregătire a acestor noi proprietari de #yacht pe coasta de vest. Această navă este un iaht cu motor Carver 46′. Această barcă este prima lor navă mare cu experiență limitată. Am avut mai multe evenimente de andocare, ancorare și navigare pentru antrenament pe parcursul zilei. Pentru cei dintre voi cu iahturi cu motor mai mari, există o secțiune completă dedicată ancorarii iahtului dumneavoastră la plajă. Mulțumesc pentru vizionare! #yachtdelivery #stpetersburg #egmont #tampa #boatlife #boattraining #boating #beach #carver #gulfofmexico #anchor #anchoring #islandlife #island #sandbar Captwill@captainscoaching.com „Crearea de navigatori mai buni pe rând”

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37 thoughts on “Cum arată o zi de yachting în Florida {Formarea de noi proprietari de iahturi}

  1. Nice job explaining the beach stern anchoring cap. Never really did the math as explained. Always “eyeballed” it. Got the math now Assuming anchor rode has chain and line, Ive always just tied the rode to the windlass cleat to keep pressure off the gypsy. Is that a problem?

  2. Excellent, patient instruction! Even with 40+ years of boating experience, there’s always something new to learn. And since we live and boat in the northern climes, it’s so enjoyable it is to be able to cruise along with you virtually when our boat is put away in storage for the winter.

  3. Right, no wonder so many people drag their anchor if this is what you teach them.
    7' is the waterdepth, but then we still have the sea level to the height of the windlass and I guess that is another 4 to 5', which makes it a total of 12. Add the wave height, which is here next to nothing, but take 1 foot for good measure. That makes it a total of 13 feet. With a scope of 3 : 1 you get to 39', not 21' On top of that, a scope of 3 : 1 is good for a no wind lunch situation. 5 : 1 us for a very calm overnight, 7 : 1 for an overnight with maybe 15 kts of wind and 2 – 3 foot waves. For anchoring in heavier wind you will need to go to 10 : 1 scope or even more. In this case, with a 1.5 : 1 scope and the beach right behind you, the moment the wind picks up you will be history, that anchor is not going to hold. Add a stern anchor and now you got yourself into bigger trouble, you will be on the beach before you have time to get out of your chair.
    So in case of using a stern anchor go for a minimum of 5 : 1, that is not going to save you if the wind picks up, but at least it will buy you time. That would mean 65' chain minimum, however if you are then dropping in deeper water you will need to add more chain.
    Safe anchoring is much more than just dropping the anchor and hoping it will hold.

    If you really want to be safe you would have to calculate the total surface of the boat (in square feet) that is in the wind and start multipying that with the wind force. Then you know the forces the anchor and chain have to be able to withstand and since you know the weight of the chain plus anchor plus holding power of the anchor in certain sea beds, you can calculate exactly how much chain you would need. But to explain that I would need a complete page and that is over the top.
    In any case, forget the 21', that is incorrect, start making a correct calculation, which is:
    (depth of water + height of windlass above sea level + wave height) x 3 (or 5, or 7, or even more)
    Of course, if the current is strong you would need to compensate for that as well.

    And then we have of course your calculation of how far you need to be off the beach. Nope, you don't want to be rode + boat length off the beach. You want to be that amount of distance from the point where the water depth hits you safety level.
    E.g. your boat has a draft of 5 feet, you want 2 feet as a safety level (for tide, waves, inaccuracies in the depth meter etc), so then you find the spot on the chart where the 7' mark begins. And that is as far as you want to go back with the stern. If you then do it correctly you also add a some yards just in case you would drag the anchor. You don't want to be instantly aground if the anchor starts to drag. So in all you could be quite far off the beach, but that is what it is, you are not in a small console boat or small day cruiser. This 46 Carver can catch a heck of a lot of wind and you need to be prepared for that.

    So, from what I see I think you are used to teaching outboards, stern drives, but not inboards. When you get so close to the beach that the sand is being kicked up you are too close. When that happens you don't want to be in reverse. Why ? Because now you will direct all that sand and mud to your own raw water intakes and that is the last place you want to have it. If you would try this with my boat you would be swimming home or you could clean the filters yourself.
    Am oftly sorry that I have to correct you, but any instructor should have this available as basic knowledge. What you are teaching these people is basically setting them up for a grounding sooner of later.

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