Lucrări esențiale la cârma din lemn a bărcii noastre cu pânze — 158 de săptămâni după restaurarea lui Sailing Yabá

20 thoughts on “Lucrări esențiale la cârma din lemn a bărcii noastre cu pânze — 158 de săptămâni după restaurarea lui Sailing Yabá”

1. Good job!! Funny little Oh-Oh moment. When you first attached the wheel to the shaft and spun the wheel to starboard, the rudder went port. Just an editing glitch.

2. Nice black tanktop

3. I see there is quite a lot of paint touching up to be done

4. Please take some advice from these comments. That chain link with no pin is going to break.

5. Add a long threaded rod at the end of the chain attached to a turnbuckle… rod will be a Smaller profile going through the chain hole.. previous idea of turnbuckle is good

6. Hmm.Big improvement… BUT… I am still concerned about the termination on the quadrant. Those eyes through the holes in the quadrant ends will cause massive wear to those quadrant holes…. that will be expensive to repair. I think you need a swivel bolted through it so that the movement is in the swivel.
   I am also surprised you didn't use Dynema instead of stainless wire. Dynema won't stretch & is stronger than the steel.
   Finally, the guy who drilled the holes… @ 1:51 Are you sure you haven't kidnapped 'Mads' from 'Sail Life' ?

7. I hope you will be able to have enough steering response in tight situations. Having to rotate the wheel so many times to get the boat to turn could be difficult but you can always increase the size of the cog in between the large one you had and the smaller on now installed.

8. Sorry I keep asking but that tube for the cables needs to be brass or stainless steel

9. Do you should have a cover guide over the chain to keep it from popping off. Under rough seas and large waves a sudden impact to the rudder could cause the chain to jump a tooth or come off altogether. Cars that have timing chains use guides and chain covers to help keep the chain in place. Just a thought.

10. Glad to see followed the advice on gearing, now the next part is to mark the wheel at Mid-Rudder point also what would help is a dial telling you the angle of the rudder

11. Hey All, just an fyi don't remove that nipple when filling grease, see that little silver tip on the nipple, its meant for a grease gun, " don't take off the nipple to fill the grease it needs the pressure" keep up the great work guys!!!!!

12. Love your improvements. My only suggestion is to add a "tensioning device" to keep the wires taught. It can be as simple as a pully riding on the long run of the wires attached to a spring so that when the wire stretches you do not have to keep tightening them.

13. Thanks!

14. Now you have power steering, but on dry land. Once in the water and moving things might be a little more resistant, but looks good and meets your needs. Glad to see the boat is nearing the launch stage

15. I'm not a marine engineer, but if I were you I would get an engineer to check that steering setup. The last thing you want is for that fail at sea, It does look a nice job though

16. You need to put a sliding window in the cab to get some air in there.

17. That "nipple" is a zerk fitting. There are grease guns designed to mate to the fitting and fill parts with grease. Search online or your local automotive store, you're going to need one.

18. The pulleys at the bottom of the loop need to be fastened far more securely. In heavy sea they will not hold up to push on the rudder!!!!!!!

19. Gran bel lavoro…👍👍👍👍

20. I think you need a positive stop in the helm. If the boat rolls and you lean on the wheel you may force the rudder too far. Install a block after 2 turns to left or right of straight ahead.

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