Proces provocator: Cum vom obține târgul nostru de cocă pentru barca cu pânze de 50 de picioare? – Ep. 381 RAN Sailing

Proces provocator: Cum vom obține târgul nostru de cocă pentru barca cu pânze de 50 de picioare?  - Ep.  381 RAN Sailing



Sprijină-ne producția și alătură-te echipajului RAN Sailing ~ cu transmisii live, întâlniri și contact direct cu noi: https://www.patreon.com/ransailing Carenajul a început și Johan trece prin metodele și instrumentele pe care le vom folosi . Apoi începe și vom vedea cât de mult careing avem de făcut… 😊 Suntem o familie suedeză care a navigat prin lume din 2016 în timp ce împărtășim aventurile aici pe YouTube. În timp ce încă navigam, obiectivul nostru principal acum este construirea RAN III, o barcă cu pânze de 50 de picioare pe care o construim de la zero. Postăm un episod nou în fiecare vineri, așa că asigurați-vă că vă abonați și apăsați clopoțelul pentru a fi primul care află când există un nou episod! MARFĂ: https://ransailingstore.com/ Cămăși, tricouri, genți și multe altele sustenabile din bumbac 100% organic, concepute de noi! PRODUSE ȘI ECHIPAMENT CAMERA: https://www.amazon.com/shop/ransailing Am adunat câteva dintre produsele pe care le folosim în viața noastră de croazieră și realizarea de videoclipuri în magazinul nostru Amazon. Dacă cumpărați oricare dintre articolele din magazinul nostru, primim un mic „ka-ching” în pisicuța noastră de croazieră (fără costuri suplimentare pentru dvs.). Mulțumesc mult și mulțumesc programului Amazon Influencer. CONECTAȚI-VĂ CU NOI – Site: http://ransailing.se – Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/ransailing – Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/ransailing Credite muzicale: http://www. epidemicsound.com Dragoste, Malin, Johan și Vera

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48 thoughts on “Proces provocator: Cum vom obține târgul nostru de cocă pentru barca cu pânze de 50 de picioare? – Ep. 381 RAN Sailing

  1. Would it be possible to attach a number of rotary sanders to a contraption like your torture board to get the best of both worlds? I’ve seen a hardwood floor company use a multiple rotary sanding contraption to great effect. Just a thought.

  2. The fairing is no less a challenge than the other projects so far. I'm sure Johan will work out the best combination. Perhaps you need to invite the local footbal team over for some winter work sessions, they would have it done in a jiffy! Good to see you planned kitchen garden, they are a great source of food and of peaceful activity together.

  3. Hello and thank you for sharing this video, which is always very interesting for you to watch. I don't think after the day of sandblasting Johan that you go to your physical training room, but earlier a massage to relax the shoulders. Thank you and have a good week.

  4. Wow, I admire all your hard work and your daughter is going to have some amazing stories to tell.
    On a completely unrelated note, the imagery of your farm and eating breakfast together is eerily reminiscent of the movie Lamb.

  5. You probably have already come up with these ideas already but….
    – Mix your compound thinner. You have mashed potatoes viscosity. Go for greek yogurt…. just thick enough to not sag.
    – Get your hands on 410 instead of 407. Way easier to sand, and that will make a ton of difference over that huge hull.
    – If you continue with the notched trowel technique, use a trowel with thinner notches spaced more widely.
    Good luck, and pace yourself.

  6. Ja,du har litt av en jobb foran deg!Ut ifra et økonomisk utgangspunkt ville det kanskje være lurt å drøye "low density filler"ved å blande den ut med en filler som bygger bedre.Jeg har personlig brukt den "bomull-filler"som NM-Epoxy selger.Ulempen er at "bomullen"krever en del "massasje "for få en glatt sparkel!Vil også anbefale å sikte "low density filleren med en sil.Tror det mest effektive påføringmetoden vil være å påføre et større område med ett tynt lag sparkel om gangen .Vent så ca.12 timer(dvs.før epoxyen herder)påfør så et nytt lag,opptil 4 lag.Først da begynner du å pusse.Lykke til!!

  7. You may have done this already, but , you should talk to a 'Plasterer". The people that plaster walls are essentially doing the same thing. Over the years, I have learned when finishing drywall, thinner layers are better. The more you put on, the more you have to sand off to get a smooth finish.

  8. SAVE A WEEK OF TIME!! Use the round sander to remove the smallest amount you can after it becomes hard. Yes, the machine can open the surface for you, which takes the longest time and most sandpaper really. Then, break out the long board! Sometimes I even wipe it with alcohol after cure, and BEFORE sanding. It just depends on how much "sticky" is left after the cure. I 1. would cure it, 2. wipe with alcohol, 3. DA it (dual action sander, not only rotary) lightly, 4. wipe my guide coat and then 5. longboard. Yes, if you eat a lot of protein like chicken, beef, beans, etc, you will get stronger and this will also help with the time. It happens quickly if you eat right. Nice boards and WOW does the boat look nice! Your wife is amazing as well, right there with you, working with you. Great job!

  9. If you only use microbaloons to thicken the epoxy it will be to rigid. Start mixing the microbaloons until it still is smooth than apply Silica(Aerosil) until you achieve the result you want.
    You should always mix the base with the hardener BEFORE you add any filler.
    Keep up the hard work!

  10. MJ Sailing uses a product Dycem blue liquid that you can add to denatured alcohol or acetone and simply apply with a rag or paper towel. Great video today..You have more hard work ahead of you!

  11. It is faster to apply a thicker layer of putty than scraping it to thin. To get a fair surface you want to sand in only one material. If you have spots of hard laminate the sandpaper will sand off the softer putty that will create an uneven surface.

  12. Hi guys,I am very familiar with your fairing method and products,although it may seem daunting especially when you look at it in its entirety, when sanding don't look down the length of hull,treat it as lots of small areas that join up to one big area,also go slow and build up one layer at a time,control the amount you are screening and once you hit the glass ( high spot) stop and reseed the lows any way I can blab on for hours, you got this and cheers from Australia.

  13. You’ve certainly started this fairing feast with your “Broccoli” – ie the least enjoyable and most challenging part of the hull with all of those overlaps and folds in the glass around the bow, it really can only get easier from here. I’ll soon have to tackle the same task on my much smaller 28’ Herreshoff H28 so I’m particularly interested to see you trying different methods and I really appreciate your insights and thoughts on the equipment and processes. 'Still my favourite Youtube channel.

  14. I've done a lot of surface finishing in my career and after applying a coat of what ever it is your using whether it be plaster, body filler or cement you always go back just before it hardens and scrape off or knock down all the lumps before it dries. For plaster you scrape with a putty knife, body filler you rasp over surface and cement you use a polishing trowel. I'm sure if you went over your area and scrape off those high spots with a cheese grater style rasp it would reduce your sanding quite a bit, you got to hit it when it's still a little rubbery and go gentle with the rasp.

  15. There are drywall sanders that can give you a large surface area that you need . It will only grow your shoulders two to three times, but if want to fair the hull the old way ….. well maybe four or five times then and ten times the time. Look into it . I’m sure it will help. Cheers🥃

  16. Good luck with the sanding. It must feel tough for you sometimes with the had work, but work a great lifestyle you have created with family, working from home and building you dream boat. Mvh Nigel from Falkenberg 👍

  17. with the amount of sanding you will have to do. if was me, i would be converting the long board sanders into electric belt sander. ; ) haha

  18. Hi Guys! Some top tips from the pros who have faired my hulls.
    Your compound consistency of your second layer was about right, maybe a little thicker.
    Apply fewer, thicker layers of compound as when you use multiple layers the epoxy from the new layer leaches into the old layer as pure epoxy and makes it harder to sand and just gets worse with more layers, we used one thick layer (3-5mm?), sanded and had minimal patching to do on the second layer, yes lots of compound gets sanded away. They never used the notch trowel method.
    You can start with power sanding using a big 200 mm disk machine, this will take most of the high spots off if moved around well then use the long boards for the last 60-70% of fairing.
    I can’t remember which compound they used below the water line but is different to that on the top sides as it is less affected by water absorption over time.
    Sanding of the glass before fairing will give a better bond for the compound a light run with 40 grit, just to scratch up the surface.
    After the compound is mixed up, spread out over a large table/metal plate to allow some of the heat to dissipate, this will give you a longer working time on the hull.

    Hope these tips help out, using them made our fairing a relatively painless process. Good luck

  19. Others have mentioned alternative fairing compounds, Total Fair from Total Boat being a favorite. As this product is not yet available in Europe, I suggest that you check out the comparable product from AlexSeal and/or West System’s professional fairing compound. Mads at SailLife gave the latter high marks compared to what you are using now. Good luck with this massive task, we feel your pain.

  20. Having built a 50ft cat, I don't see how you'll be able to produce content during this phase. Using the longboard took 2 guys an entire year working full time to fair my boat. This is the worst part of building a boat and the most boring. I wish you the best through it.

  21. Hi guys Just sent an e-mail regarding fairing and seen an automatic reply so if you do get to read this do have a read of the e-mail, I think it could be worth the read regarding the fairing.

  22. Hej, Ni borde kolla in The Duracell Project. Matt har en bra lösning på när han blandar fillern, av använder en låda i en kartong och en dammsugare och det rycker nästa inget. för övrigt så följer jag er varje fredag med spänning ska bli intressant när ni börjar på insidan 🙂 Mvh Jens

  23. its crazy how interesting this is watch. I was sad when this was over. 🙂 Keep up the good work. I love watching you learn and discover these processes. 🙂

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