De ce rupe barca!

De ce rupe barca!



Cu motorul nostru vechi scos și repararea noastră în curs de desfășurare săptămâna aceasta, ne murdărim. Sala mașinilor a fost neglijată de ceva timp și devine misiunea mea să o aduc înapoi la strălucirea de odinioară. Isabelle face progrese solide cu sentina. În timp ce amândoi demontăm vechiul dormitor matrimonial și ne imaginăm viitorul nostru. Îndepărtând un seif și două dulapuri din cabina de la pupa, mintea noastră începe să zbârnească cu gândul la un dormitor matrimonial cu un pat queen-size adevărat, în loc de paturile tale de spumă marine pe care le-am dormit în toată viața noastră. Niciodată nu m-aș fi gândit că mă voi distra atât de mult în cel mai tare șantier de bărci, încât ai putea să faci o reparație. Alăturați-vă echipajului https://www.patreon.com/SailingMerewether Patronii noștri sunt cei care fac totul posibil și fără ei, nu am fi acolo unde suntem astăzi. Când vă înregistrați, nu numai că aveți acces la toate videoclipurile noastre cu săptămâni înainte de public, dar aveți și o linie directă cu noi și încercăm să ne cunoaștem pe toți patronii noștri. Pune-ne o întrebare, dă-ne un sfat spune-ne ce vrei să vedem, ne place să vorbim cu echipajul nostru cât de mult putem. Mărfuri, cămăși și multe altele https://sailingmerewether.com Paypal https://paypal.me/sailingmerewether?country.x=AU&locale.x=en_AU Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sailingmerewether https://www. instagram.com/neeisabelle https://www.instagram.com/kieranwyse Facebook https://www.facebook.com/sailingmerewether Sponsori și colegi UK Sailmakers – https://www.uksailmakers.com Predict Wind – https:// www.predictwind.com

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47 thoughts on “De ce rupe barca!

  1. Strongly recommend a foaming degreaser and pressure cleaner for cleaning the engine room and bilges. You also need to get two or three extra battery packs or additional cordless electric tools. If you intend to really refurbish this boat, you will need lots of tools that it appears you do not have. I suggest you contact a couple of the other sailing channels, especially Mads and Ava from Sail Life. They are always willing to offer help and suggestions.

  2. The state of the engine room indicates neglect but the Amel is such a sturdy platform that the bones are in good shape. I would inspect ALL the system. Also check through hulls. Bet you there are corroded. What Ching your progress with enthousiasme

  3. You guys just amaze me! Your courage and tenacity to get this job done is amazing. I might just find a way to put a tarp over the top. Keep the rain out and maybe keep it cool. Good luck.

  4. Hello, your boat has been very poorly maintained. Very good idea to clean everything but it is imperative to check all the mechanics, also the propeller transmission etc… take the time….good luck to you both.👍👍👍👍👍

  5. If you can, galvanize all the metal in the engine room. Hot dip will give the most protection but cold sprayed will do the job just as well. It gives galvanic protection whereas 2PE only seals it from the atmosphere and is effective as long as the surface is not damaged in any way. If you want to extra protection after a patina has developed on the galvanized surface will give an extra layer of protection. Do some research. it is not foolproof but then nothing is really.

  6. well, I notice that this beautiful AMEL IS NOT AS DAMAGED AS IT APPEARS, JUST ABANDONED, IT'S GETTING UP TIME WITH THE ENGINE BASE, THE SUPPORTS, THAT BLUE COLOR IS NOT APPROPRIATE, IT MUST BE WHITE TO EASILY OBSERVE POSSIBLE LEAKS, I SEE THAT THE INTERIOR WOOD IS VERY WELL, WITH A BLEND SPRAY YOU RECOVER BEAUTY, YOU MUST HAVE THE BEESWAX BLEND. IT'S GOING VERY WELL, CONGRATULATIONS AND BLESSINGS, I LIKE YOUR STORY MORE AND MORE COME ON, IN LESS THAN 5 MONTHS YOU WILL FINISH

    PD: The primer paint on the bench is an anti-iron rust

  7. Too bad the safe wasn't full of cash $$$ Now that would have been nice . It's going to take a while but when your done you will have a vessel you will be proud of and will be able to take you around the world in style .

  8. I'm so happy to follow along on this refit. It is definitely going to be a lot of work but you guys have a great start. The effort put into cleaning the engine room and bilges proves to me that you two will build a boat you are proud of. Now I wait…for the next episode. Great job guys!

  9. Hello again fellow bildge rats lol. Great job cleaning her up. When i did this job on my 42' boat it was suggested that i spray bleach upward inside the bildges to thwart any mold unseen. I did, then i scrubbed the bottom of the floor with Scotchbrite pads wherever i could get to. The black mold under there was disgusting but after hours of cleaning and drying out, the odors previously eminating from the depths were eliminated completely. Keep up the good work. You're a pair after my own bildgerat heart.;)

  10. The cost on those motor mounts is outrageous. Those mounts should not cost over $50. With so many things manufacturers use off the shelf parts that are commonly available or available from another supplier. Recently I was having problems with one of my plasma cutters and it needed a new regulator and pressure sensor and from the manufacturer of the plasma cutter I was looking at $300 for two parts. I could clearly see the parts were made by smc and from my local pneumatic supplier I purchased both fort $25. Google lens is making it easier for people to match of parts or to find out who the original manufacturer is.

    I recently needed an alternator for my Ferrari Testarossa and Ferrari sells it for $1200, the alternator is manufactured by Delco Remy and after an hour of researching part numbers and cross referencing part numbers I figured out Ferrari used the same exact alternator as a 1985 Corvette which can be purchased for around $90.

  11. Kieran is by far the most competent demolition man I've ever seen. I always HATED engine work, rust was my nemesis because it always seemed to meld things together never to part again. The way Kieran casually talks about "removing" this or that part and then tells us he's "just removed" something that would have taken me 24 hours back in the day, I realise how clueless I was when I clapped eyes on a boat engine the first time… When I say I knew nothing about engines, I am being kind to myself.

  12. Your work seems to be paying off. Can't wait to see how you progress. Just wondering: the boat yard you are working in looks like the same boat yard your fellow Australian YouTubeer SV Nanji worked in. Is it?

  13. Hope you’re not polishing a turd. From someone who’s polished many turds. Btw, soap is a degreaser. From mold pro’s it’s two words: steam clean. Then wipe down with diluted bleach.

  14. Matey you need a reality check….you not getting anywhere fast with one battery. If you think that bay is clean you are dreaming get back on itandclean it properly.

  15. Use Phenyl, a heavy duty phenolic disinfectant used to clean drains, and a little kerosene, lots of old cotton waste to mop up the filthy oil and gunk. That gets rid of most of it. Then I finish using a proprietary bilge-cleaner, or a degreaser. Of course, the best is a steam cleaner, and many boatyards have one for hire. When you re-assemble the engine bed–a lick of white lead on the threads will make it easy to torque them up and will ensure they do not rust up and lock. If you can not get white lead, use some zinc oxide or lithium water pump grease.

  16. Hey guys like your video on your drive and your bilge one thing you need to do have a good dry bilge is really good pumps a primary large capacity and a secondary backup and then on your drive my suggestion is make sure you put grade 8 stainless steel bolts actually that's what I use on everything now I'm by the top bolts. Grade 8 is really tough stuff and if they're stainless and Loctite or a thing with red Loctite also around everything good it's one thing people forget about ground he's a couple good number one size grounding cables or bigger

  17. Hey guys, do yourself a favor and build yourself a canopy over the boat. Really simple to do with 4×4 timber fence post, rachet straps, and cheap Blue/silver reflective taupe. Use a sheet rope from Mizzen to your timber Post (near the main mast step) Tension with rachet strap to bow & sidestay chainplates. On the base of the post attach a square (300x300mm) pc of 1"ply with a scrap pc of carpet on it. Post can be about 1800-2000mm high with some eye bolts. You won't regret it. stopping some of the sun's rays is a must in that climate. I have done many refits and this is the first thing I do after clearing the deck. Enjoy the journey

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